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Popped a fair few bottles on Christmas Eve Eve but no real notes - just some comments.

2004 Devils Lair Chardonnay (screwcap) - Rich and yeasty but very drinkable. Liked it very much.

2003 Coldstream Hills Pinot (screwcap) - One of my favourite house wines and a bargain at around $17.99. Rich dark plummy fruit and caramel oak. Developing a bit more complexity now with some mulchy earthy character emerging. Always a very enjoyable drink.

1999 Chateau Beaucastel - Oh my. This is just delightful to smell. Blackberry, smoke,truffle, meaty, herby. Licorice with more airing. On the palate a more suave sophisticated wine than the fruit packed ‘98. Toasty smoky dark fruit. Seamless and long. I rate this wine very very highly.

1995 Chateau Pichon Baron - Cherry, cedar, earth. Quite fragrant. Smooth and soothing palate. Nothing out of place. Much better bottle than one we had a month ago. Not showy. Top wine.

1995 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz - Mercifully our last bottle (I think). Reeks of dill and coconut. Underneath all that there is some really lovely berry fruit and ripe tannin. What a shame they murdered the fruit with the oak. If you like the smell of a dill farmer on a beach holiday then this is the wine for you.

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I bought a mixed case of Guillons, from 1er cru wines to this basic Bourgogne Rouge. And with another warmish evening in Brisvegas, it was time for a pinot. In the end, I didn’t drink this wine, because it was ditchwater - dirty, tarry, with no redeeming features. It’s not often I just tip a bottle down the sink, but that’s where this one went. I haven’t rated it because it must have been faulty, surely it was faulty, surely. I am yet to find a Bourgogne Rouge worth drinking and am tending to think that it’s much better to stick to New World gear in this price range.

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This bottle was purchased from auction, and since I don’t like to keep auction wines too long (I don’t know how the wine has been previously stored) I’ve been drinking these fairly quickly. On removing the capsule, there was evidence of some leakage at some time in its past.

Initially the wine showed pungent earth, black fruits and dampness – I really like these characters. It certainly is a beautiful nose, displaying a certain purity with nothing confected or smeared. The palate has sour red/black fruits, with lovely focus. It’s more of a masculine wine (that is, it’s not pretty or perfumed or delicate), but unfortunately this example is lacking a bit of power and the length is average. This was markedly different from the bottle I had in May – one of the joys of cork.

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Cheap Burgundy is usually pretty ordinary stuff compared to the local product..but I am always game for a laugh.

Oh this is prickly. Vinegary aromas first then red fruit and spice. Light bodied palate with sour red fruit. Not sure if this is the bottle or the way the wine is. Very poor wine at this price point.

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Not tasted this one for about a year or so now so I grabbed one from the bat cave. It was served with lobster, crab and prawns and went splendidly well.

Quite yeasty and wild with grapefruit and melon fruit and just a whisper of spicy oak. On the palate very tight and focussed with citrus fruit backed up by savoury lees derived flavours. Plenty of acidity. Good mouthfeel and good length. This wine really is still a baby - leave it alone in the cellar for a few more years if you have any.

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Well here is a blast from the past. I bought a dozen of these from the winery for myself (long gone) and a dozen for my brother as an XMAS present in 1995. This was his last bottle. The wine is 60% Cabernet and 40% Shiraz. Aged in re-shaved American oak.

Strong mint, plum and twiggy aromas - no real oak influence at all. On the palate still good fruit. Nice plum/prune/blackcurrant flavours and soft tannins. Holding up very well considering an OK vintage and very passive cellaring conditions. Not a bad drink at all.

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Oooo I had a right lot of wines over the XMAS break and this is one of the better ones. It comes from Martinborough in NZ but looks more like Burgundy. The winemaker is Australian Larry McKenna.

Lovely crimson colour. Complex Burgundian overtones - undergrowth and decay but also floral with bright cherry fruit and a touch of vanilla oak. Slightly sappy too. Fresh and dry on the palate. Light not heavy. Some sappy grippy tannin. Excellent pinosity. Builds up in the glass. A lovely stylish wine.

(Retasted Jan05 - Not as impressed this time. The palate seemed a little dilute and thin.)

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I was reading the latest newsletter from Plantagenet and notice they have done a special museum release of this wine. I read their tasting note and thought hmmmm that is a great review, top writing, looks a bit familiar….

From the newsletter -
This classic developed Riesling has a big spice and lime palate with acid beautfully threaded through. Still plenty of aging potential, drink now till 2011!

From my Plantagenet vertical tasting notes in Winefront Monthly
Classic developed Riesling nose – spice, hints of petrol, lime rind and wool. Big spice and lime palate with acid beautifully threaded through. Plenty left in the tank.

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Is this a controversial producer and wine? Well it certainly seems to have divided a certain international critic and more provincial critics, so when my allocation of the 2003 Quintet arrived recently (why, oh why, do they ship wine in summer?) I was very keen to try a bottle as soon as possible. And with a lull in the warmish weather, I had an opportunity to do so…

A vibrant red and purple. The nose is enticing indeed – cedar, tobacco and ripe red cherries; with time, a dash of chocolate and some darker juicy fruits appeared. In some sense, the aromas belie the fineness of the palate: it is not jammy or over-fruited, but is more sour-fruited, medium bodied with oh-so fine melting tannins, and very good length. It does not have an intensity that some would perhaps want, but I like it and could think of worse ways of spending $85.

Impressive now, and should improve with age. Try one now, another in five years, and further one in 10.

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I don’t think I have tried any other vintages of this wine but have heard that it is an over-performer at the price point so I thought I would give the 2004 a bit of a go.

Strong purple in colour with blackberry/mulberry, earth and savoury charry vanilla oak. On the palate a dry savoury wine with red berry and mocha flavours. Grainy loose knit tannins and some alcohol warmth. A little lean on the mid and back palate but quite tasty. Finishes dry with a light burnt coffee aftertaste. This is an authentic regional wine that offers a welcome respite from sweetness and artefact that you so often find in sub $15 wines. Easy to drink. Would be great with a steak. I like it.

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Just a quick one to wish Winorama readers a happy and safe christmas. We have only been open a couple of months and we are already getting over 300 visits per day from a few hundred sites…and growing daily. Lots of big things are in the pipeline for 2006 too. More content. More features. More work… so thanks for dropping by in 2005 and we hope to see you next year.

Merry Christmas and a big festive Get Stuffed from the Winorama team.

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Just a quick list of 2005 Rieslings that I have tried and a brief impression -

Leo Buring Eden Valley - Beautiful and pure. Cheap as chips. Buy it by the case.
O’Leary Walker Polish - Lovely intense flavour.Good balance. Excellent.
O’Leary Walker Watervalue - Bit broad. Pass
Seppelt Drumborg - To paraphrase the great Mark Kopec - at the moment this one is a bit like kissing a mirror. Leave it in the cellar for many years. No rewards now. Excellent.
Grosset Polish - Beautiful. Crystal clear. Long. Superb.
Kilikanoon Morts Block - Yes. A bit of reduction. Flavoury. Very good to excellent.
Pewsey Vale - Well priced. Touch sweet and rich and lacks focus. A pleasant drink though. Open bottle still good on subsequent days.
Plantagenet Riesling - Banana, sweet lemon,spice and hints of botrytis. Attractive lemony palate with soft but balanced acidity. Good length but a touch phenolic on the finish. Drink: Now-2008. 90 points.

I am sure I have missed quite a few but anyway. Petaluma and Mesh and many more to come over summer.

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Back to the Hunter Valley for a moment. Semillon is a most cooling and refreshing drink.

Still a youthful smelling wine with lemon/lime, hay and the barest hints of toasty development. Mouthwatering citrus palate with a touch of spice. Pleasant acidity - not harsh. A good solid semillon that is just beginning to develop some complexity. Really needs a few years more.

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Hmmm. Just speaking of old school recently and what should arrive in the post but bottles of 2000 Pyrus and 2001 Limestone Ridge newly released from Lindemans. They make up the Coonawarra trio - the 2001 Limestone Ridge was released earlier in the year. Pyrus is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Good strong colour. Aromas of blackcurrant/plum, strong cedar oak, tobacco/leaf and mint. Smells good and savoury but I find the oak a touch resinous. Firm structured cabernet palate with dry tannic grip and flavours of blackcurrant/cherry, coffee and tobacco. Built up well in the glass with the fruit gaining intensity of flavour - so give it a bit of a decant if drinking young. Throwing a bit of sediment about for a youngster too. Overall I like this wine. Quite classically styled. Nothing flash - just good honest Coonawarra and it just scrapes in to the Excellent category. Not sure about the value at the quoted RRP in todays market though.

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Heave away, you rolling king
Heave away, haul away
Heave away, oh hear me sing
We’re bound for South Australia

I rather like the Pogues version of this song…and what does this have to do with wine? Well I am glad you asked! I notice a dearth of South Australian tasting notes on Winorama…so the next week or so will focus on this state. Shane McGowan would be proud.

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This one is a blend of 44% Grenache, 43 % Shiraz and 13 % Mourvèdre made off old bush vines. I like the way Dean Hewitson makes wines. Always subtle.

Lots of interesting things going on here. Red cherry, strawberry, leather, rosemary and florals. On the medium bodied palate it is vibrant and fresh with juicy pippy stonefruit and red berry flavours. Lightly drying tannins and a good long finish. This is a very drinkable Southern Rhone meets Barossa blend and outstanding at this pricepoint.

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I won’t include this as a tasting note - just a quick comment. Had this wine yesterday any my thoughts are oak, oak, more oak, some nice sweet dark fruit, excellent tannins, oak, oak, oak on the finish. Admitedly it probably needed a huge decant and was building up quite well but really I thought Wolf Blass were over this sort of oak treatment? After this wine I am too scared to go back.

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Oh this smells nice. Light and complex - rather like a Pinot with floral aromas of red berry conserve, gravel, iodine and fennel. On the palate a more medium bodied CNDP. Elegance rather than than warm jammy style. It is sweet and savoury with fine sandy sappy tannins and fresh acidity. Red fruit and herb flavours. JP notes a slightly tinny metallic taste that intrudes just a little. A very good one for the cellar. Hugely enjoyable.

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I like Petit Chablis very much. Crisp, dry, refreshing and usually well priced it offers chardonnay flavours in pure form. Throw in low alcohol, food friendliness and suitability to our climate and you have an all round winner. The 2003 vintage of this wine was a bit of a big girls blouse and I am pleased to report that the 2004 is back on form - nice and tight. I don’t know why but some reason a good petit chablis always reminds me of oyster shells, rock pools and things like that. This one does. And that is good.

Light peach/citrus fruit, struck match, mineral and just snapped fresh green beans..oh and a bit of rockpool. On the palate dry with flint and lemon flavours. Quite light but it does have enough weight to let you know it is chardonnay. Acid is prominent but about right. Nice spicy finish. I will be picking up a few more bottles of this to knock off over summer. Very enjoyable and very easy to drink.

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Last night we had a few bottles of classic Australian wine. They may not be very fashionable anymore but what excellent wines. I did not take any notes as everyone knows taking notes at dinner is the very height of vulgarity - and sadly the video documentary team had the night off for their XMAS party.

First off a 1996 Penfolds Bin 389 and what a great wine this is. One of my favourites. This bottle was aromatic and open with berry, licorice and cedar oak. Seamless palate. So smooth and balanced. Delightful. A long term classic good for at least another 10 years. A second bottle looked surly and closed. Quite a different wine and nearly so good. The 1996 389 is one of the all time greats.

The cork crumbled in the 1995 Penfolds St Henri so I had to decant into a jug and wash out the bottle. Quite rich and almost tarry with blackberry, licorice and perhaps a flicker of mint. Good flavour. Classic leathery/fruit sweet St Henri. Tannins a touch raspy but all in all this one is a very good drink and about ready to go.

To finish off a bottle of 1996 Lindemans St George. Strong blackcurrant, touch of capsicum, aniseed and lovely cedar oak. A suggestion of something more sinister too with a hint of cork taint. Looking through this though there are strong blackcurrant and cedar/tobacco flavours. Tannins are ripe but still plenty of backbone. Looks quite vigorous and at the start of its drinking window. Very much a classic Coonawarra.

So a very nice collection of middle aged wines and all worth looking out for at auction.

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