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I have a whopping backlog of things SB, SBS and SSB so I whipped through a bunch of WA SBS/SSB specimens yesterday afternoon. This, along with the 2007 Madfish, was my pick of the bunch.

Spotlessly clean with good ripe fruit that’s not overtly tropical with juicy limes, a light grassiness, capsicum spice and fennel. It’s punchy, focussed and very refreshing with a lovely long grapefruity finish. In short, it delivers the goods.

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Three times a year a bunch of us rotate venues for a dinner/tasting. We took this wine to end the night on. I purchased it from cellar door on a visit to the Hunter a few months back. I was surprised to see how many sweet whites were available in the Hunter and generally speaking most were very good. This has the classic apricot nose of a botrytis wine although it seems a lot less lifted than many botrytis whites. The flavours are fresh and quite zingy with a long finish where the acid holds the sweetness in check. Very well crafted. Sorry about the way the bottle colour went weird with my photo

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This is an aged release from Meerea Park and Epoch is their entry level semillon. From a hot and generally forward vintage, here is a wine that is doing very well.

Typical lemon, lime, a bit of dried herb, hay and some toasty development coming through. It’s has plenty of oomph and flavour with lemon barley and lime flavours, soft but clean acidity and an affable sort of chubbiness that makes it very pleasant drinking now and over the next few years. Not quite the length of a great Semillon but an excellent aged dry white at a very fair price.

Other vintages: 2007, 2006, 2005, 2002, 2002

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Bright in the glass, just starting to go golden. The nose is toasty, limes and a bit of cashew. The palate is really delicious, with great toast flavours, even suggesting some oak char but it had no oak aging! The acid is the crispiest I have seen in a wine of this age and it really balances the toasty lime flavours well. I saw this at the cellar door and grabbed some for home. I saw 5 older Hunter Semillons in a week and feel that there is a definite window of optimum balance. It is probably 3 to five years wide though but in the Semillons grown on the sandier loams it seems to open at about 7 to 10 years. Once again, I love the low alcohol. This is great value, speak to Scott at the cellar door. The history behind this cellar door is quite amazing since they have diaries going back to the 1800’s that trace the vines to the original plantings in NSW.

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I had lunch at my local Italian with the affable Chris Tyrrell today and had a preview of their 2007 release reds (more later and wow!) but his little bag of tricks also contained a bottle of this, the mighty Vat 1 Semillon, flag bearer for the Great Australian White. He’s certainly more handy to have around than Felix the Cat…at least for the wine enthusiast.

It’s soft and limey with some fennel and a little spice - refined and delicate and that theme carries onto the palate which is fluid, fine and gentle with a just a touch of toasty bottle age beginning to show. The flavours are typical - of lemon and lime rind and the texture is lightly chalky and fluffy with a lemony acid bite on exit. It’s a delightful Vat 1 that is approachable now and a good bet for mid to long term cellaring.

Other Vintages : 2007, 2006, 2005, 2000,1999, 1997

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I don’t cellar Semillon; I would much rather buy a good mature one, and in this regard I am very thankful to be able to purchase one like this. Now I say mature, but I reckon this could easily go another 10 years, if that is what you wanted.

Some yellowing. Aromas of glossy lemons, golden fruits, citrus peel, herbs and a little nutty. The palate is toasty and full bodied, having a waxy texture, with lemon, peel, and old nuts. Some secondary development is evident, but the wine is still quite youthful and fresh, balancing the old and the new. Superb length and a lovely dry finish.

Other vintages: 2004

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There’s apparently only around 50 dozen of these made, and mailing list members get first dibs.

It’s limey and already a little bit nutty with a little free sulphur showing. On the palate quite rich (in context) with plenty of rich sweet lime and mineral flavour, balanced acidity and excellent length of flavour. It’s often hard to say too much about a young Hunter Semillon other than whether you think it’s good or not. Well this is good and it’s already offering a fair degree of drinking pleasure.

Other vintages : 2005

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Well this is one of the most attractive dry whites to have passed my lips in quite a while, so much so that I feel compelled to immediately put finger to keyboard. I was supposed to be tasting but I couldn’t stop drinking the bugger, so if you like a white Bordeaux style then I’d be all over this like a fat kid on a Lime Spider. Only 317 dozen made.

It’s not especially fruity and does not smell specifically of one thing or another, it’s more vinous and dry whitey than anything else, but you could say citrus, apple, dried herbs and vanilla oak all play a part in the mix. On the palate dry but creamy with delightful fine acidity and flavours of lime, vanilla and sweet green peas. It’s gentle and balanced throughout and finishes with a little flinty grip. A delightful wine from start to finish.

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I first heard about this wine a couple of months ago when that prolific wine writer, Paddlepop Ryan, muttered some shadowy details about a new Barossa Semillon he had enjoyed the night before. Old Paddlepop looked a bit rougher than usual (if at all possible) that morning, and perhaps the deviation from his usual diet of Banana Paddlepops and Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc had unduly ruffled his mane. Anyway, I digress, this wine hit the old chops after tasting a bracket of all too sweet Chardonnay and it fell down like spring rain. It put me in mind of a Northern Italian white, something with not much flavour, but a whole lot of refreshment. A food style and made from a noble grape too - not some rubbish like Pinot Grigio.

It smells of lemon barley water, wool jumper, a few dried herbs and a bit of sherbet - although not really much at all. It’s quiet and vinous rather than showy. On the palate again subdued and light with crisp but fairly dilute lemon barley flavours, a few dried herbs and a bit of mineral. It’s clean and very fresh with bright acidity and a good dry finish. An ultimate dry white food style and one I really like. I could drink heaps of it..

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I worked my way through a quick flight of white tasters the other afternoon and this popped up up its hand and topped the class. Not a teacher’s pet though I assure you. A blend of 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, and made by Brian Light.

A delicate and gently grassy nose, with ripe gooseberries and tropical fruits, melon, pear and a bit of banana. The palate is elusive, showing honeydew melon, hard green fruits, gooseberries and a chalkiness, particularly on the finish. Not too fruity, nicely balancing the fruity and the herbaceous elements, all with a long dry finish. Excellent short-term drinking.

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White Spider instantly puts me in mind of the restaurant of the same name down at Perisher, on the road up to Charlotte’s Pass. Drinking a bottle of this, however, is a little more inexpensive than a nosh up at the restaurant of the same name. Anyway, I cracked this because I think that the synergy that Semillon and Chardonnay have is often under-rated.

It smells of peaches, brown apple and candle wax with some redeeming lime and green herb. On the palate a fruity mix of peach, apple and citrus that is tangy, slightly flinty but certainly fruity. It’s fairly wide and unfocussed and tails off mid-palate but finishes dry and clean. Uncomplicated and easy to drink - it’s a good solid wine.

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I don’t drink much SSB or SBS (well I don’t really drink much of any one thing these days) but when in town Mr Walsh chooses to stay at the Margaret River. I like these blends better than straight Sauvignon Blanc as they have a bit more interest and usually have better shape through the palate.

A bright and juicy mix of citrus, gooseberry and tropical fruit with some spice and grassy overtones. On the palate it’s light and beautifully balanced with fine clean acid that refreshes but does not grate. The flavours are of slightly sweet tropical fruits cut with citrus tang and there is a bit of capsicum spice and grassiness to add interest. Quite delicate. Finishes clean and long. It’s a top wine and so refreshing. Invigorating even.

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Margan usually turn out a softer, more fruity Semillon that’s quite approachable as a young wine and this is no exception, although this looks perhaps a little more serious than usual. It certainly looked good after being open for a few days.

Nice and juicy offering a mix of fruit including ripe citrus and apple with a bit of struck match and dried herb. On the palate crunchy and fairly dry with citrus and some fruit veering towards the tropical spectrum. It has plenty of flavour, an acid balance offering good cut but nothing overbearing and a clean dry finish. All very enjoyable - either now or later.

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I usually introduce Barossa Semillon with a bit of a spiel about it being great value and widely under-appreciated so I’ll give it a miss this time. It is though and this wine comes from vines that are over forty years old.

It smells of green apple skins, lime, lemongrass and fresh pineapple with a little grassiness. On the palate it has plenty of flavour offering apple, citrus, crisp pineapple and a bit of sweet grass. Nice and juicy with excellent weight and texture, quite soft, but not at the expense of clean acidity. It even manages to squeeze in a bit of flintiness and has a good clean finish too. This is tops - a wine of great utility and refreshment.

Other vintages reviewed : 2006, 2005

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A tasting note and a media release combined - a little good news and a great wine.

Drayton’s Family Wines Opens Temporary Cellar Door

Historic Hunter Valley winery, Drayton’s Family Wines, is back open for business following the devastating explosion on 17 January that tragically killed fifth generation winemaker Trevor Drayton.

The temporary cellar door, located at the winery in Pokolbin, was opened at the weekend, and family member, John Drayton, has already been overwhelmed by the response:

“In the past few weeks we have been overcome by the community spirit in Hunter Valley Wine Country. Many of our grapes are being picked and processed by other wineries but luckily, under the guidance of our father Max and his 60 years of experience, we are processing many of our reds on-site. We are also seeing our loyal customers, and new ones, wanting to be a part of our re-building process by purchasing our wine.”

“Yes, it’s been tough, but the Drayton family are Hunter Valley pioneers and we will survive.”

“Our assistant winemaker Will Rikard Bell continues to improve despite the rigors of extensive skin grafts, but we are hopeful that he will return to Drayton’s and continue the job that he was doing so well.”

Drayton’s Family Wines
Oakey Creek Road, Pokolbin
(02) 4998 7513
Opening hours: 10-5pm

Subtle and subdued with aromas of lemon and lime, sunlight soap, hay and some nutty honeyed development. On the palate very fine with beautiful gentle acidity and soft rounded flavours of lemon, nuts and a little toast. It’s flows along in the most gentle stately manner - a Rolls Royce ride through the mouth - and finishes with great length of flavour. It drinks well now but it tightened up and improved over a couple of days. A great Hunter Semillon.

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Jumping from one side of the country to the other in a single bound we can experience another Super Semillon. This time from Vasse Felix who do a very good line in the fuller oaked style. This sees 40% new French oak, but only for 10 weeks, which is sort of like a little holiday for the grapes in a fragrant wooded area.

This has aromas of lime, melon and green bean supported with vanilla and clove spice oak which is always an unusual combination for me, yet one I find strangely compelling here. On the palate light to medium weight with flavours of sweet lime and herbs, gentle sweet pea pod and spicy vanilla oak. It has soft pure acid and feels well rounded with little dollop of creaminess helping to add gloss. Vitality, complexity, fine balance and very good long finish all add up to make a top Semillon in the wooded style.

Other vintages : 2006

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I’d say 2006 was better for Hunter Semillon than 2007 and the early mail says 2008 looks like being a return to the classic style. By this I mean classic in a style for the true enthusiast, not a juicy forward one like 2005 through 2007 that keeps the Sydney bistro brigade happy (not that there is anything wrong with that..), but one that requires extended cellaring to give the Hunter Semillon fairies time to work their magic. Reports have fruit coming in at 9 to 10be with no acid addition required. Something to look forward to anyway..because this if this rain does not stop soon the reds might well be totally rooted… The last few months in Sydney have been like living on the set of Blade Runner…

Quiet but intense with a mix of lemon, lime and hay with a bit of spice. On the palate tight and coiled up into a ball of citrus and green apple with a flinty mineral edge. Again intense but sotto voce - just a dress rehearsal for the opening night. Clean soft (and seemingly) very natural acidity and a clean but slightly abbreviated finish complete the picture. Very good cellaring style.

Other vintages : 2004

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My first experience with old Hunter semillons on a recent visit to the Hunter was supplied by our friends Janice and Brent with assistance from Abby. This was delicious. The nose has that toasty peachy aroma that is quite enticing. The palate is crisp, toasty with a bit of peach, a little nuttiness and maybe a hint of mushroom. The palate is very long and went really well with barramundi. The bonus is in the alcohol level. We also tried the 1986 and although good it was not in the same league as this. I visited the winery the next day and after having read Wine Hunter by Campbell Mattinson the visit gave me a real buzz, an experience I can recommend and a wine that was a real privilege.

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This picked up a couple of trophies at the 2007 Royal Perth Wine Show, one for Best Dry White Table Wine (Blends) and the other for Best 2007 Vintage Dry White Wine and a very good wine it is too.

Bright and quite pungent with a mix of nettles, citrus and tropical fruits. On the palate it’s really perky and zesty with passionfruit, pineapple and citrus fruit, sweet nettle and capsicum spice. - a burst of Passiona® style flavour. It has balanced acidity which is slightly bitey and perhaps a little loose on the palate, but certainly easy to drink. Closes with a good dry Gin and Tonic flavoured finish. A really tasty wine that drinks like a champion.

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This wine is made from fruit grown on an individual vineyard referred to by the Drayton family and other locals as Pinchen’s, named after its original owners. This vineyard was first planted with Semillon by William Drayton (1860-1945) in 1934. It was later replanted with Semillon using cuttings selected form our Old Flat Vineyard in 1986. The soil is deep alluvial with a layer of coarse sand subsoil and calcareous gravel.

The media samples for this and the 2005 Susanne Semillon came bottled under cork, yet the bottle images supplied show a screwcap, so I assume the general commercial release is under that superior closure (indisputably the case for Hunter Semillon).

Showing some nutty and toasty development over sweet limey fruit. On the palate full and well rounded with quite rich limey fruit and warm roast nut flavours. Plenty of sweet fruit (within a Hunter Semillon context), soft gentle acidity, high drinkability and a good dry finish. It’s a bit out of the mainstream style for Hunter Semillon but I really enjoyed it nonetheless. Ready now.

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