Elderton Command Shiraz 2004 Saturday, May 17 2008
Tasting Notes and Australia and Barossa Valley and Variety and Red and shiraz et al
I’d argue that this wine would be significantly better with a whole lot less oak as the fruit is beautiful and needs to be heard more clearly. Nevertheless, after four days of being open it showed no sign of tiring, and the oak slunk off into the background like a noisy bore at a party that finally gets the message, which surely augurs well for future festivities.
Fresh and minty with a mix of black and blue fruits, aniseed and a double shot of toasty espresso oak. On the palate blue fruits, Barossa coal, spice, milk chocolate, aniseed and plenty of toasty savoury coffee oak - sweet fruit and savoury oak. It has magnificent ultra fine tannins married to fruit of outstanding purity and freshness that’s currently submerged under a blanket of toasty oak. Very long finish. It needs a lot of time to come together and the points are for then, not now.
Rated : 94 PointsTasted : May08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $90
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2015 - 2025+
Source : Winery Sample
Visit winery website
Print this article
eMail this article
Rose of Virginia turns 21 this vintage and I’d say it’s still about my favourite local rosé. It walks with style that fine line between being juicy, fresh and flavoursome without wobbling over to the sweet or sickly side. This year’s model is Grenache 44%, Cabernet 29%, Pinot Meunier 14.4% and Shiraz 12.6%.
Grange eh? A wine that requires no introduction.
I’d suggest buying magnums of this wine; one bottle is clearly not enough in one sitting. We tasted this over a couple of days and the last glass evoked a little tear in the eye and the sound of cash registers ringing in my ears. Ouch..but it’s Awesom-o.
Barossa Shiraz is probably best not known for providing weekday bargain drinking but here’s a winery that’s been delivering the goods year after year at very modest prices. I have tasted every release of the ‘Boundary Row’ Shiraz since the 2001 vintage and this could well be the finest. They are currently looking for distribution in NSW if any readers have a hole in their portfolio they would like to fill.
It’s a blend of 87% Barossa Shiraz and 13% Riverland Petit Verdot. Not sure about the label but it’s certainly eye catching..perhaps even a little suggestive….
Elderton are a carbon neutral winery which is great thing, especially considering the weight and size of the bottle in which this wine comes. Still sealed with a cork, while the top of the line Command comes in a Stelvin Luxe. I’d guess this is either because Mum likes cork or more likely that the bottle is a special shape that cannot be capped. Perhaps both. This year’s blend is 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Shiraz and 19% Merlot and I like it as much as last years, perhaps even a little bit more.
It says on the back label that the Cabernet Sauvignon (65% - Barossa Valley) and Tempranillo (35% - Adelaide Hills) is an unusual blend, and I think I have read a similar thing written locally about three times. So I have three big words to offer - Ribera del Duero.
This wine topped the class in the recent AGT wine magazine Merlot tasting, and a nice wine it is too, but I think it says a lot more about the Barossa Valley than it does about Merlot. I tasted it alongside the Elderton Shiraz of the same vintage which had substantially more weight and presence in the mouth. 
I feel a little ignorant about this label but not about the variety. Two friends brought different labels of this variety on the same night. This wine is from the Eastern side of the Barossa and a visit to their website suggests they like Italian varietals. The aromas were tobacco and plum and something not clear. The palate showed the same sort of fruit but the tannins seemed a little tough. It is only 12.5% so maybe it needed a little more ripeness. I am hoping those Winoramists who are more familiar with the variety than the two examples I tried may enlighten me as to what I should have been seeing.
I have all the Elderton Estate wines lined up for tasting, including a new (I think) 2007 Zinfandel. I thought I’d kick things off with the Shiraz and I don’t mind telling you this is the vinous equivalent of a torp from 60 metres straight through the posts. I was expecting something pretty decent, but this is a bit special.
Oh I really want to make some sort of George Michael joke whenever I review this wine…but I always resist. Maybe next year the compulsion to say (or do) something irrational in a public space will overcome me and I’ll finally crack…ooops. Officer!
I first heard about this wine a couple of months ago when that prolific wine writer, Paddlepop Ryan, muttered some shadowy details about a new Barossa Semillon he had enjoyed the night before. Old Paddlepop looked a bit rougher than usual (if at all possible) that morning, and perhaps the deviation from his usual diet of Banana Paddlepops and Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc had unduly ruffled his mane. Anyway, I digress, this wine hit the old chops after tasting a bracket of all too sweet Chardonnay and it fell down like spring rain. It put me in mind of a Northern Italian white, something with not much flavour, but a whole lot of refreshment. A food style and made from a noble grape too - not some rubbish like Pinot Grigio.
What a pleasant surprise to taste a Barossa shiraz with only 13.5% alcohol printed on the label. Now with our current labelling laws that could mean a 1.5% variance either way, so it could be 15% but the tech specs have it down at a refreshing 13.1%. Interestingly there are moves afoot to bring our 1.5% tolerance down to .8%. Good.
I’ll say right from the outset that this is not the sort of wine I would choose to drink, although it’s certainly a good example of a style that’s becoming more and more prevalent…for a variety of reasons.
I opened this up along with a bunch of other Shiraz at a BBQ last night (I’m such a technical taster..) and it proved to be one of the more popular wines. That’s not such a bad way of tasting, all things considered, and anyway, my clean quiet white natural light filled room was having the walls re-padded at the time…The fruit is sourced from mature low yielding mature vineyards (approx.40 years old) located on the northern (Kalimna & Ebenezer) and western (Seppeltsfield.) sub regions of the Barossa Valley.
Curiously, for a well regarded ageing style, the contents of this bottle (3/4 full or 1/4 empty depending on your outlook) took on a distinct balsamic vinegar tang when re-tasted the next day. I’m not sure why that happened but thought it was worth mentioning.
I was up for buying a few bottles of this the minute it hit my chops. Those bottles, of course, will be screwcap sealed as that is my preferred option but hooray for Penfolds for giving the consumer the choice; cork, screwcap…or both! 
The name “Pirathon” celebrates a famous punch up (known locally as the battle of Pirathon) that happened outside the Tanunda pub circa 2005AD (around 9.30PM) between Helen of Troy Kalleske and visiting celebrity Paris Hilton. The trouble started when the wily Hector (of Tulloch) claimed his one dollar coin was next in line for a go on the pool table but Troy’s mate Achilles (owner of the local kebab shop) would have none of it. Paris had kept a lazy eye on the dashing Hector for most of the evening, and in a show of support and quite possibly with the intention of blowing the froth off a couple with him later on, set her dog onto Achilles. Although small in stature, he was both plucky and smart, and went straight for Achillies’ heel. “Struth!”, yelped Achillies, “It bloody bit me.”..and after that is was on for young and old….