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I had lunch at my local Italian with the affable Peter Howland the other day and had a preview of his 2005 release reds. There are three single vineyard Shiraz (what’s the plural eh Grant?) from WA in the portfolio and this wine from the Donnybrook sub-region of Geographe, although the least of them, is still a remarkable wine nonetheless. Perhaps if I had tasted it in isolation then it may have scored a little higher? I suspect I was blinded by the stars shining on either side (Parsons and Pine Lodge) of which more later…

It’s pretty to smell with ripe black cherry, plum, spice, menthol and a rosy vanilla fragrance wafting above. On the palate medium bodied and smooth with plenty of ripe tannin and balanced fresh acidity. It has highly attractive flavours of plum and dark cherry, pepper and tasteful vanilla cream oak - good fruit weight, although not especially deep, and a finish of good length. Very smart wine and beautifully made.

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This is right on the money for the money (if that makes any sense). It’s a mix of Margaret River (66%) and Fergusson Valley (34%) fruit, sees 10% new oak and offers irresistible drinking at a modest price. I’d be all over this if I was in the market for a drink now dry white.

Crisp and juicy with nectarine, citrus and pineapple, a lick of spicy oak and a bit of struck match. On the palate crisp and juicy with flavours of fresh pineapple, citrus and stonefruit with just a little spicy oak in support. It has fine balance, clean acidity and keeps good shape through the mouth. Closes with a spicy citrus aftertaste. Interesting, highly drinkable and very refreshing. Lovely wine.

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I was tasting this alongside a Shiraz Viognier and thought ’stuff me if this does not have a bit of Viognier in it too’ ..and so it does. I looked it up. Only three percent mind you..but that’s enough to swing an election (and don’t try saying that if you have a lisp).

Ripe juicy and sweet berries, licorice, pepper, spice, vanilla and some BBQ meat. A heady mix of sweet and spicy. On the palate medium bodied with flavours of cherry jam, berries, pepper and a little stalkiness to straighten things out. It has a slippery glycerine texture with fine powdery tannins that move along real nice and easy. Closes with a sweet cherry and dried herb aftertaste and a little dustpan of tannins to clean up the finish. Pretty delicious and pretty good value too.

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I probably don’t do enough wines at the ‘budget’ end of the scale but I am working on fixing that. Here we have a wine that can be found for under $10 a bottle that offers plenty of character and great drinkability. The perfect sort of thing to knock off mid-week with a nice pizza, or if you are watching your weight, maybe a grilled steak and salad (with lots of chips).

A pretty smelling wine offering a mix of red berry fruits, flowers, pepper spice and a little woody oak. On the palate just medium bodied with juicy red berries, spice and some dried herb flavours. It has light grainy tannins, clean acidity and a good spicy berry finish. A nice friendly wine and one that I am happy to provide with a good character reference.

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Todays mini theme is wines with pretty labels.

Quite perfumed with sweet dark cherry, bitter chocolate, pepper and dried herbs. A medium to full bodied palate with dark cherry, overripe strawberries, spice, dark chocolate and dried herb flavours. It has firm grainy tannins providing a bit of mouth traction and a good dry finish. Very drinkable and excellent value.

Other vintages : 2005

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100% Merlot from Geographe, that’s north of Margaret River, and matured for 12 months in French barriques. On the nose, red plums, milk chocolate and some spice. The palate is quite plummy, with cherry, chocolate, tomato leaf and tobacco dryness. Full bodied, rich, nicely weighted, with fine tannins and quite a bit of acid on the finish. Better with food as you would expect. Short-termer only I reckon.

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A blend of 96% Mt Barker Shiraz and 4% Geographe Viognier. Matured for 12 months in French and American oak. A pleasant nose: spice and plums, mocha, chocolate and some dry spices; no obvious Viognier characteristics. The palate has an engaging mix of spice and fruits, plums and pepper, elegant and silky, a little fleshy, all with a drying finish. I really do like Mount Barker Shiraz. I had this next to the “Debut” Shiraz and though the natural temptation is to rate this higher because it is more expensive, I have pegged it at the score. Equal but different (as a band called the Au Pairs used to sing).

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Snappy packaging. A blend of 96% Shiraz and 4% Viognier from Pemberton, Geographe and Mount Barker. Matured for 12 months in French and American oak. Quite a reserved nose: red berries, pepper, cinnamon bark, spice, smoke and with time hints of orange and dried apricot. The palate shows spicy fruits, peppercorns, red plums, candied oranges and apricots with a dry and slightly grainy finish. Full bodied and very young with firmish tannins that need a year or two. Not one if you are averse to Viognier characteristics.

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