The Home of Renowned Tasting

I’m going on holiday tomorrow for a week and have about 40 notes I’d like to write up..but that’s not going to happen tonight. I’ll aim to knock up about six or seven and have them magically pop up each day in my absence….which may or may not make your little hearts grow fonder.

There’s a bit of spicy clove oak here but it sits comfortably on a bead of cream, lime/citrus and figs. It feels medium to full bodied and has a creamy yeasty texture with fine acidity pulling it into shape, freshening and lengthening the palate. Citrus, figs, spice and savoury lees are the main flavours and the finish is long, creamy and spicy but not without a bit of controlled flinty grip on exit. A top Chardonnay of complexity and sophistication that’s ready to go now.

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I’m having a couple of major problems with all these 2005 Margaret River Cabernets, namely those of limited funds and finite capacity. This year’s Heytesbury is all Margaret River with just a sneaky little addition of 5% Shiraz and is a barrel selection rather than a single vineyard wine (as per usual). There won’t be a 2006 vintage release so the intention is to stretch this out until the 2007 Heytesbury becomes available.

Flamboyant, complex and highly aromatic with a mix of ripe cherry and cassis, violet, dark chocolate and spice tempered by more herbal influences of peppermint, gum leaf and snapped green twigs. It’s also appropriately gravelly and earthy as is the way with the best Margaret River Cabernets. On the palate full bodied and flooded with ripe cassis and cherry fruit, dried herbs and mocha flavours - a wine of considerable impact, depth and drama. It has strong ripe chalky tannins, superb balance and a long dry finish. A wine that resonates in the memory long after tasting.

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A new label for the 2005 vintage (of which you can read more about in the excellent Moss Wood newsletter here), and while I miss the old one, the contents of the bottle more than adequately compensate for the loss of gold trim; this is easily the best since the mighty 2001 vintage. The oak is less obvious and it’s more refined and balanced (and less warm and chocolaty) than some of the more recent vintages. I tasted it alongside the soon to be released Vasse Felix Heytesbury of the same year, and while they are quite different wines and hard to separate qualitatively, it was the svelte charm of the Moss Wood that tipped the scale. A style preference in more ways than one.

A gorgeous smelling wine that immediately pulls at the purse strings of the Cabernet enthusiast - it offers mulberry and dark fruit, a violet perfume, spice, fine cedar oak and that gravel and wet cement aromatic that is so typical of the region (at least for me). In the mouth quiet authority and grace is the order of the day with ultra fine mouth coating tannins, ripe fruit, oak and alcohol all in perfect balance. It’s appropriately dry and savoury but not at the expense of bright fresh Cabernet fruit flavours. Long and satisfying this is a wine of rare balance and significant ageing potential. Certainly one of the finest Moss Wood releases to date.

Other vintages : 2001, 1999

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Well this is one of the most attractive dry whites to have passed my lips in quite a while, so much so that I feel compelled to immediately put finger to keyboard. I was supposed to be tasting but I couldn’t stop drinking the bugger, so if you like a white Bordeaux style then I’d be all over this like a fat kid on a Lime Spider. Only 317 dozen made.

It’s not especially fruity and does not smell specifically of one thing or another, it’s more vinous and dry whitey than anything else, but you could say citrus, apple, dried herbs and vanilla oak all play a part in the mix. On the palate dry but creamy with delightful fine acidity and flavours of lime, vanilla and sweet green peas. It’s gentle and balanced throughout and finishes with a little flinty grip. A delightful wine from start to finish.

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I like WA Shiraz. But I am not going to break into song about it; I will leave that to Gary. I would however like to mention that this wine was made from a blend of Frankland River and Margaret River fruit, and though it was co-fermented with a dash of Viognier, it is not one for the apricotiste.

Savoury red fruits, cherries and plums and raspberries, with some black plumminess and dry spice, and if you look closely enough some apricot too. But don’t go hurting your eyes. The palate showed plums and dry spices, with raspberries, cherries, cinnamon, a bit of acid and a bit of cinnamon bark too. Dry and savoury, on the light side of medium bodied, and very drinkable.

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I have been cracking through the old Chardonnay recently at a fair clip and have some pretty tasty items to write up. This is one of them, it has great appeal and they call it Xanadooooooo

A whiff of yoghourt, white stonefruit, citrus and spice lead into a fine medium bodied palate that offers flavours of white peach, grapefruit segments and spice. It’s a bit savoury and worked but sufficiently fresh and clean to cope. Good subtle oak, crisp but gentle acidity and a long spicy citrus finish complete the picture. Really enjoyable wine.

Other vintages: 2005

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X&Y, perhaps a good name to remind us that marketing people can quite often totally lose the plot? This is pretty good though and I quite like the concept and branding. Anyway, I just grabbed this bottle from the pile because a) I am feeling a bit snuffly and wanted to see if my eye was in, b) because it had been sitting in the pile for way too long and c) I saw it reviewed in yesterdays Sunday Telegraph. I’m feeling sort of OK about a), b) is good - more space and I think the trashiness of c) is best forgotten quickly.

The burst of sweet red fruits - strawberry jam and cherry, spice and dusty vanilla oak would make this pretty popular. On the palate medium weight with sweet red fruits, spice and some more savoury barky dryness. It’s a bit warm, has grainy dry tannins, and while not especially deep does have an attractive juicy charm about it. Finishes with a lick of spice and dried herb. Nice easy going wine.

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This arrived yesterday, in amongst a couple of dozen other samples, and because I am a Cabernet man I wasted no time in tucking in. Too much Margaret River Cabernet is barely enough if you ask me. Anyway, I really like this and I have 92 or 93 scribbled on my pad, but as we all know (I hope) the score is only a small part of the story, so just to make it perfectly clear, this comes with my emphatic approval in all departments - value, quality, style etc.

It has a delightful violet and gum leaf perfume over mulberry, blackcurrant and chocolate with a handful of gravel thrown in for good measure. On the palate medium to full bodied with perfectly ripe fruit offering blackcurrant, mulberry, chocolate, some more earthy flavours and a touch of leafiness. It has fine firm tannins and feels beautifully balanced from start to finish. A delightful wine of considerable grace and sophistication.

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There is always something promising about the mousse on a glass of sparkling Shiraz; I find it quite festive. This wine was no exception displaying some lovely purple foam, albeit temporarily. A complex nose, plums and vanilla, pepper, stewed fruits, and even some apricots and oranges. The palate displayed sweet fruits, plums and raspberries, with some leathery complexity and some doughiness too. It was light in the mouth, and the acid cleansing and refreshing; a single bottle just wasn’t enough, especially when shared between four people. Drink now, but it would be interesting to see it with another year or two of bottle age.

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I have 3 sparklings from Pennan to review: two Sparkling Chardonnays, one with zero dosage and another made in a slightly sweeter style, and a Sparkling Shiraz. This is the zero dosage wine. 280 six packs produced. A pleasant nose, with hints of lemon and cream, yeast and biscuit. The palate showed lemon and a light biscuitiness, with red delicious apples and sherbety tingle. It had quite a rounded mouthfeel, in some ways belying its absence of dosage. The finish is dry and crisp; quite a refreshing tipple.

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If you work on the assumption that both are reasonable possibilities, this is exactly the sort of wine I would grab from the bottlo if I had twenty bucks in my pocket and a bunch of friends who were passively interested in wine. It’s excellent juice and it delivers a whole bucket load of fruity action - but with a bit of style. For the record it’s 94% Chardonnay and 6% Sauvignon Blanc. I guessed it also had a bit of Semillon in the mix but I have been known to get these things wrong every now and then…..

Fresh and punchy with grapefruit, white peach, passionfruit and some grassy overtones. On the palate it’s juicy and clean with an explosion of citrus, stonefruit and some tropical fruit with just a touch of green herb adding complexity. It has a sweet fruit, well judged mouthwatering crisp acidity to balance and excellent length of flavour. Crowd pleasing and highly refreshing. Love it.

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A big black bottle holding a big black wine, and like last year’s effort, it really needed a day to start strutting its stuff.

Rich cherry and cassis, violet, chocolate (with nuts) and little leafy regional eucalypt top note. Decadent yet firm. On the palate full bodied with the flavours replaying those found on the nose. It has plenty of plush firm fine grained tannins and feels smooth and balanced throughout. Long nuts and chocolate finish to close. Lovely wine. A top Cabernet of considerable depth and satisfaction.

Other vintages : 2004

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Hmmm the weekend yielded about ten wines that I think I’ll write up. It seems a wee bit too early to be tasting some of these 2007 wooded Chardonnays I might add.

Tropical (banana, pineapple etc.) but nice and fresh with some green fruits, a few green herbs and a touch of flintiness. On the palate quite tart and a little tangy with sweetish tropical fruits, citrus and a tiny dab of vanilla oak. It has clean acidity, a slightly flinty texture and finishes fairly dry. In summary it’s a mix of ripe fruit and greener flavours that is easy going and quite refreshing, although not especially complex.

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I don’t think I have had the standard Margaret River offering (not the Estate wine) since the 2001 vintage. That was an excellent wine and very fine value - clearly regional and varietal. This vintage also delivers a very good wine at a fair price but I’m not so sure that it’s particularly regional or varietal. Nonetheless. Release date May 2008.

It’s all dark fruit, chocolate, spice and earthiness here with just a flash of green escaping from the void. On the palate rich and full bodied with mainly black fruits (and just few red ones bobbing up) and chocolate and black olive flavours. It has plenty of fine chalky tannins and shows a little warmth but nothing intrusive. Smooth and dense with a good black fruited finish. It’s a good satisfying wine that delivers plenty of bang.

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I don’t drink much SSB or SBS (well I don’t really drink much of any one thing these days) but when in town Mr Walsh chooses to stay at the Margaret River. I like these blends better than straight Sauvignon Blanc as they have a bit more interest and usually have better shape through the palate.

A bright and juicy mix of citrus, gooseberry and tropical fruit with some spice and grassy overtones. On the palate it’s light and beautifully balanced with fine clean acid that refreshes but does not grate. The flavours are of slightly sweet tropical fruits cut with citrus tang and there is a bit of capsicum spice and grassiness to add interest. Quite delicate. Finishes clean and long. It’s a top wine and so refreshing. Invigorating even.

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A big wine from a big year. This is 81% Cabernet, 14% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 100% Margaret River. Of recent vintages it reminds me most of the brooding 2001 rather than the charming 2003.

Strong and ripe with blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate, violet, some eucalyptus and a good measure of cedar/vanilla oak. On the palate full bodied and generous with flavours of cherry, plum and mulberry, some chocolate richness, a bit of floral mouth perfume, a little tobacco savouriness and sweet vanilla oak in support. It has plenty of ripe earthy gravelly Margaret River tannin, balanced acidity and takes a long line through the mouth. A powerhouse with high potential. Be patient with this one - it needs time to unfurl before it really flies.

Other vintages : 2003, 1998, 1996

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My boy (of nearly four months) decided to practice his singing skills at 4.30AM so I decided to get up, keep him company, and knock out a few notes myself. Gooooooooo. Wagoooooo. Errrrhhhh. Arp. Arp. (and that’s just me). It’s a new thing, as is this wine, which I thought was called [indulgence] hence the highly self introduction but [invocation] it is. I did not have one handy at the time so the singing went on thorough the night. Cue Lionel Ritchie….

Sweet melon, white peach, spicy vanilla oak and a sort of candied Pez character come jumping out of the glass. Obviously charming or charmingly obvious. On the palate medium bodied with soft fruity melon and citrus flavours and some vanilla oak. Not especially complex or long but it’s balanced, easy going and sure to be popular.

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Prendiville (although it sounds like a character in an Oscar Wilde play) is a selection of the top 40 barrels of cabernet from Sandalford’s 1970 Wilyabrup plantings. It is, therefore, roughly a make of about 500 dozen. Prendiville my dear boy..

I was working on the proof of one of my notes all the morning, and took out a comma. In the afternoon I put it back again.

Beautifully aromatic with the perfume of violets, dark fruit, mulberries, gum leaf, wet cement and fine pencilly oak. On the palate medium to full bodied with flavours of mulberry, violet and that typical (and very attractive) regional wet earth character. Perfectly ripe fruit with just the right amount of leafiness adding Cabernet complexity. It is fine and long through the palate with ripe gravelly tannin and feels fresh and lively throughout. Top end. Perhaps one of the best things I can say of this is that it’s worth the asking price. It’s so well balanced that drinking it now offers great pleasure, although the best is yet to come.

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This is right on the money for the money (if that makes any sense). It’s a mix of Margaret River (66%) and Fergusson Valley (34%) fruit, sees 10% new oak and offers irresistible drinking at a modest price. I’d be all over this if I was in the market for a drink now dry white.

Crisp and juicy with nectarine, citrus and pineapple, a lick of spicy oak and a bit of struck match. On the palate crisp and juicy with flavours of fresh pineapple, citrus and stonefruit with just a little spicy oak in support. It has fine balance, clean acidity and keeps good shape through the mouth. Closes with a spicy citrus aftertaste. Interesting, highly drinkable and very refreshing. Lovely wine.

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Hot on the heels of a conversation regarding filling a few holes in our collection of 1996 vintage Champagne, I commented to JP after tasting this that surely it must be a case purchase? ‘Now we’re talking’ she said, shortly followed by ‘Twelve years and he finally gets it!’ This is right up there with the 2002 in terms of quality and from the first sip I knew that this was the wine for me. The 2006 must be pants wettingly good if it’s any better than this…

Immediately proclaims itself a wine of great breed and power with aromas of nectarine, grapefruit, dried pear, yeast and spicy oak. On the palate the promise of the nose is kept and delivered most abundantly with intense fruit offering flavours of grapefruit, nectarine, cinnamon and clove spiced preserved lemons, cracked wheat and fine French oak. It has great drive and purpose through the palate covering all dimensions (width, length and depth), penetrating clean grapefruity acidity, a pleasing slightly flinty texture and enormous length of flavour. A truly glorious wine.

Other vintages : 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 1999, 1992

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