The Home of Renowned Tasting

No introduction, I am in a rush and Blackboard is telling me to “hurry up”.

Glacé cherries, a roundedness, stalk and pepper, soda water, mint tea and a touch of dried meat. The palate showed red fruits, dried stalks through the mid palate and fleshed out on a finish that included a touch of sap too. There was some sweetness of fruit, with some game and dried meat characters, but there was also an underlying stalkiness that might disconcert some people. A lovely light mouthfeel, good length, dry and perhaps a bit shy, lightly weighted with a feminine edge. Short term drinking I would guess.

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A dinner where a couple of us tried to bring wines from 1999. This had lovely aromas of bright cherry fruit. The palate was supple and very long. The fruit was clean and expressed ripeness with a spectrum of flavours from dark cherry thru to raspberry. I could see oak but it was well integrated and did not stand out. The wine was very popular and a lot better than a few other ’99s I had a week earlier. Alongside the 99 from Bernard Dugat-Puy it shone.

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In between tasting a whole raft of other things I grabbed this from the fridge in order to refresh the old palate, and what a refreshing change of pace it made. It’s made from Chardonnay and Aligoté (no skins) and offers a refreshing bubble of difference. Imported by Marcus Gniel at Ce Soir Wine of smouldering James Bond style B&W photograph on the back of business card fame.

It opens with indistinct fruitiness, possibly apple and lemon sherbet with a little complex smoky sulphide and a round of cream biscuits. It has a big creamy foamy mouthfeel with lots of bubbles that’s both dry and charming, light, fresh and rather fluffy. A bit like stuffing powder snow into your mouth (although no need to get up after the experience here unless you drink too much). It’s wheaty and delicious. Flavour. Expression. Difference. Style. Drinkability. I love it. Do it. DO IT.

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A dinner with Pinot producers looked at quite a few Bourgognes from 2005 and one from this maker looked very reduced and seemed extractive so the question was posed about how they age. Fortunately an example from the great vintage of 1999 was at hand and although we didn’t have any other Bourgogne from ‘99 we did have a Nuits Saint George to act as reference point. The colour of this wine quite dark with little sign of development. The nose had cinnamon, plums and maybe a little bacon. The palate was rather tough, a lot of tannin and very tight fruit at the plum end and some oak flavours of cinnamon spice and nutmeg. It may well open up in a few years but for now it was not a wine I would choose to drink. I had a bottle of my ‘99 and also the Kooyong ‘99 the next day and both showed more development but were more approachable. Some of you may have experience with how this level of tannin and fruit resolve with time but for now I reckon it would probably be loved by Bob Parker and his followers.

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One from the cellar. A light red in colour, no browning but no vibrancy either. Red cherries, leather, clean earth on the nose. The palate showed red fruits and some secondary development, a bit of gloss and a brief moment where the wine seemed to have some weight and mouthfeel. But really, it is starting to dry out and leaves a watery impression. And the finish evaporated quite quickly in the mouth. Dry. Drink up.

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Here’s a new wine for (or from) Ce Soir Wine Importers from Aoc Touraine. I’m starting to see reviews of their portfolio cropping up all over the place. Indeed, I see this month’s AGT wine features a review of the excellent 2004 Les Léonides in the best imports $25 and under section. I’m told this particular wine will be available under screwcap, rather than the dodgy old synthetic that was in this bottle. I’m writing the note from memory because I don’t know where I put my note for it, but I only tasted it yesterday, so it’s as fresh as the wine. I’m the consummate professional.

It’s fairly subdued with gentle aromatics of light fresh tropical fruit (something along the lines of pineapple/green melon/kiwifruit), creamed honey and subtle grassy herbal character. On the palate it’s mid weight with a subtle creamy lees texture, balanced unobtrusive acidity and a little bit of flinty grip. It’s entirely pleasant and lovely to drink with nothing abrasive or obnoxious sticking out to annoy you. Finishes with decent length and a bit of flintiness on exit. Very attractive wine. I recommend it. I should probably give it 90 points.

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The Rhône Valley had has a run of good vintages since 1998, excepting the aquatic 2002. And before Gary chips in it should be noted that 2003 was very hot and is likely to divide a room of Rhônistes. 2006 is looking good too, as long as the alcohol is held in check.

No big surprises on the nose, with fragrant red cherries, dried herbs, clean earth, red liquorice and iron filings. The palate starts out with red cherries and leathery herbs, and then is swept away in a wave of big savoury flavours, ripe and herby, all culminating in a dry finish. Medium bodied, with perhaps a bit more weight than the 2005. No heat and very good length. Remarkable for under $20.

Other vintages: 2005

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I struggle with the preamble, unlike Gary, who, for those that haven’t met him, can talk and talk and talk and seems to rattle off some introductory text effortlessly. Anyway, I did a quick Google in an attempt to find something interesting about this wine only to discover that David has already reviewed it, and that I paid 40 cents more than him. I feel ripped off.

Initially nothing, but then red fruits, sweat and a stinkiness, but then some black liquorice, leather and old river stones. The palate is medium bodied, with cherries, goat hide and dry dry spices. Inoffensive, and quite simple to be honest, with a thin and woody finish. It filled out with time but the length was unchanged. Not the best value; perhaps better to spend an extra $10 and get the Guigal Cotes-du-Rhone.

Other vintages: 2005

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I have a feeling that I bang on a bit about Beaujolais and its drinkability and it being an excellent accompaniment to a Mediterranean lunch. This post continues the tradition.

A dry and savoury nose, showing raspberries, iron filings, leather and dry stones. The palate is medium bodied and dry, and though it is perhaps a little bit rustic, it also oozes with savoury fruits, earthy spices and a raspberry tanginess. Very good length, moderately alcoholic and leaves an overall impression of a dry spiciness that complements food. No tsunami of flavours here, but that is not the point. Good stuff indeed.

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We always like to start the weekend with a bottle of cooling Champagne although I often don’t write them up. Too busy. Last week’s effort was a Pol Roger white foil as it happens (and very nice too) but today a bottle from this slightly more obscure producer.

Golden in colour with a complex nose - it’s a mix of mineral, smoke, creamed honey, bread and citrus mainly. Quite winey too if that makes sense. On the palate pretty dry but not without with richness and weight. It’s spicy, lightly honeyed but overall pretty minerally and savoury with a light smoky aspect. With its fine persistent bead, gentle foaming mousse and long dry finish it really hits the spot. A particularly good NV I think.

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This is 100% Merlot off vines with an average age of 35 years and as it’s just outside the St Emillon AC, only qualifies for a more humble status of AC Bordeaux. Good news for the consumer I think. Now if you have any blocks you want busting then this could well be the wine for you - it has enormous extract and grip, and whilst perhaps a bit New World in style (but without the sweetness), it still looks like Bordeaux to me. Importers: Ce Soir

Strong dark colour with great aromatics including raspberry compote, violet, camphor, mineral and earth. On the palate medium to full bodied with ripe purple fruit, raspberry, violet and a strong earthy mineral character. Rich but dry to taste. It has huge extract with strong dry tannins and a good earthy finish. Already throwing a crust, I’d give this beast a few years to settle, and then enjoy it over the next five (or more).

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A nice glass of cooling Champagne is the best way to start the weekend. Interesting rocket shaped bottle too. Anyone for T-Ball?

Rich and quite big on the autolysis with yeast and brioche over apple and red fruits. Touch of smokiness. On the palate fairly weighty with richer flavours of sweetish red fruits, dried apple and brioche. Balanced acidity and quite a vigorous fizzy mouthfeel. Dry spiced apple and yeasty aftertaste. Not exactly subtle but still pleasant and very flavoursome - although I do prefer a finer, drier style myself.

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It always strikes me as a most curious thing when I hear people say they rarely get a corked Champagne as I find more taint in it than just about any other style. The first bottle was horridly corked so I had to scuttle back to the shop to grab a replacement. Most inconvenient.

Smells dry and savoury with a mix of citrus, brine, flint and mineral with a bit of cinnamon biscuit and some chamomile prettiness. On the palate a lighter aperitif style with mineral, biscuit and citrus flavours and a bit of briny tang. It has a slightly aggressive tingling bubbliness and attractive crisp clean acidity. Finishes dry with a bit of a salty cracker taste. Attractive, easy going and just a little bit grubby. Like it.

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A medium red colour. A balanced and alluring nose, sour cherries, kirsch, pepper, spice box and a touch of garrigue; nothing in excess, nuanced if you want. The palate is most excellent: red cherries, a touch of liqueur, beautiful fruit tannins, gravelly savoury notes, terrific length and a dry finish. The thing that strikes me most is the structure, so balanced, and so drinkable, not sweet or cloying. Looking good at 8 years of age, and still has plenty of time ahead of it. The alcohol might be teetering on the edge for some, but for me it is effortless drinking. And as an aside, I think this is a better wine than many of the Cuvee Prestige Châteauneuf-du-Papes, and it is interesting that Paul Avril doesn’t produce one himself - three cheers to him!

Other vintages: 2004, 2001, 1999

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Another interesting wine from the portfolio of Ce Soir Wine Importers which is a blend of Cabernet 45%, Shiraz 30% and Grenache 25% from an organic producer in the Coteaux du Libron. I also tried their 2004 Merlot ($22) which smells delightful with an array of earth, blackcurrant, bramble fruit and plenty of black olive. It drinks beautifully and offers plenty of rustic interest although does lack weight and concentration on the palate (88 points).

Gorgeous to sniff with a mix of black fruit, earth, smoke, mineral and peppery notes. On the palate medium to full bodied with black fruit and raspberry, mineral and spicy meaty flavours. It has dry chalky tannins, a slightly metallic twang and fresh acidity - although it also feels a bit alkaline. Perhaps a little lacking in weight and length but the compensation is plenty of rustic charm, personality and good drinkability.

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Not La Crau…La Crau! That little addendum to the name often causes a bit of confusion as to whether there are two old telegraphs…but like the Highlander, there can be only one. There is a second wine now though, mind you, called Vieux Telegramme, and some say this is responsible for a bit of improvement in the more expensive offering. Not so sure of that. Also of note is that both my Vieux Telegraphe T-Shirts are now boot polishing rags after over ten years of trusty service. I bought them at the winery in 1997, one as a gift for a friend, which I decided to keep for myself because they fit me so well. I did tell him I bought one of them for him though. It’s the thought that counts after all.

It smells of raspberry and fresh blackberry, peanut shells, liquorice allsorts, spice and flowers. Beautiful and pure to smell. On the palate medium to full bodied with fresh acidity, firm dry tannins and great vigour. It has flavours of crushed berry, mineral, pepper and pushes through the mouth with great purpose and energy. Very long expansive finish. A great wine, and as usual with a young VT, the last glass is always the very best.

Other vintages : 2000, 1982

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After running through some pretty distressing bottles of Sauvignon Blanc I thought a nice cooling glass of Champagne was required in order to lift the spirits.

Quite creamy and sweet to smell with yellow fruit, spice, smoke and some floral notes. On the palate again soft and creamy with brioche, stonefruit, mandarin, mineral and spice. It feels well rounded, more to medium body than full with a touch of sweetness, crisp acid and a fine persistent bubble. Closes with spicy and citrus flavours and decent length. A good vintage Champagne at a fair price.

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I popped down to Coldstream Hills last week to take part in a couple of tastings. The first was a comparative of top end Pinot from Stefano Lubiana, Felton Road and Coldstream Hills and the second being this session - ‘Cabernet at the Crossroads’. Not sure why it was called that, I must not have been paying attention, but I do know that I felt on home ground getting back to that superior and most noble of grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon. This tasting amply illustrates how good the Yarra Valley can be at producing great Cabernet, and indeed I feel it is the regions best red grape, yet it’s such a shame there are not more producers. Coldstream, Oakridge, Mount Mary, Yeringberg, Wantirna Estate, Yarra Yarra would be the main players with some smaller, newer operations such as Hillcrest creating successful wines.
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It’s a life full of surprises all right. You would not expect to get much of a wine out of 100% Carignan, let alone one made out of a rare white mutation, but this is great - full of character and interest. The secret, as best I can tell, is that the yield from the 80 year old vines has been restricted to 15hl per hectare (about 800kg/acre) as opposed to the usual mad cropping levels for Carignan that can go as high as 200hl per hectare (about 11 tonne/acre). The Domaine is situated in the region of Coteaux du Libron, Languedoc and is run organically with no herbicides or pesticides employed. The fruit is also hand picked and this particular wine is whole bunch cold pressed with wild yeast fermentation in oak (50%) before 3 to 4 months ageing in oak. The remainder being fermented in tank then blended 3 months before bottling. Importer is marcus@cesoirwine.com

It smells a bit like orange seed cake with honeysuckle, apricot and spicy vanilla oak aromas. On the palate full bodied with a slippery glycerol texture, gentle acidity and a little warmth from alcohol - it’s balanced though, not flabby and feels pretty fresh. It has flavours of orange, apricot, cinnamon and licorice root and closes with a long slippery slide of pulpy yellow fruit and spice. Interesting and engaging - I’m quite taken with this.

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I bought a dozen of these recently because the combination of handy half bottles and affordable Burgundy from a top vintage proved irresistible. We test drove one last night over dinner with a bit of Chinese roast duck and I am very happy with its performance. Don’t mind the sketchy note, I was not really concentrating, so it’s more of a general impression. I’ll be back for more sultanas I think..

Nice and fresh with raspberry, red cherry, rose and a bit of mineral and spice. On the palate quite richly fruited with raspberry, mineral and spice flavours. It has fresh acidity, but nothing intrusive, and firm smooth tannin. Really good weight and texture - it delivers lots of mouth satisfaction without heaviness. Grippy tannins on exit and good length of flavour. I’d be happy (and was) to drink it now with food but this certainly has its best days ahead of it. Just lovely.

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