Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz 2006 Sunday, May 25 2008 

Brokenwood ShirazI opened this last night alongside the Meerea Park Hell Hole and Thomas Kiss of the same vintage (more later), all three excellent wines, but on the night this was my favourite, or at least the best to drink now. I’ll re-taste the other two tonight but the Graveyard is all gone; it was just too good to leave alone. Is it worth $125? For myself, the answer is yes, and I’ll be popping a couple of bottles into the cellar.

Wonderful depth of fruit with blackcurrants and blackberry, pepper, coffee, vanilla and aniseed all playing their part in the clean ripe aromas that jump from the glass. It’s just above medium bodied with juicy black fruits, cherry, mocha, cedar and lots of pepper and spice - intense and pretty full on. Perfect balance between fruit, oak, alcohol, acid and fine dry tannin creates an effortless flow through the mouth and the finish is very long and dry with a coffee bean aftertaste. Great wine.

Other vintages : 2004

Rated : 96 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 13.5%
Price : $125
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2026+
Source : Winery Sample
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Torzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz 2007 Friday, May 23 2008 

Torzi SchistIt’s certainly aromatically complex and fragrant with ripe dark cherry, menthol, brown spices, mint, leather, coffee and coconut ice all contributing to the riot of smells. Medium to full bodied with a mix of sweet dark fruit, spice, aniseed, coffee and malty scorched peanut giving a distinctly dry savoury impression rather than a plump fruity one. It has fine light grainy tannins, fairly prominent sappy acidity and a finish of decent length. Offering a degree of complexity and finesse rarely found in wines under twenty dollars, it’s a very successful follow up to the debut vintage.

Other vintages: 2006

Rated : 91 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $17
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2009 - 2015+
Source : Winery Sample
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Longhop Shiraz 2007 Sunday, May 18 2008 

Longhop ShirazIt’s admittedly not my preferred style, but it’s very very good wine nonetheless. Incredible value too. I particularly like the names of the vineyards it comes off - Gagliardi, Notto, Trombetta and Manno, although I’m more than half expecting to find a horse’s head in my bed if I don’t give it over 90 pointas!

It’s fully loaded with spice, macerated dark cherry, leather and liquorice - complex and vinous way beyond its price point. On the palate full bodied and deep with spice, cherry liqueur, leather and good freshness even though it’s fully rich and ripe. Fine grained supple tannins and excellent texture - hale and hearty yet not without sophistication. Long finish. Outstanding value. Top wine.

Other vintages: 2006

Rated : 91 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $15
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2012+
Source : Winery Sample
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The Story Westgate Vineyard Shiraz 2006 Tuesday, May 13 2008 

The Story ShirazThis is from a total production of 64 dozen and as at yesterday I believe there are about six or ten cases left at the winery (I forget which but I’m sure the number is nearly as fluid as the wine).

Perfumed and crammed with Chinese five spice, sour cherry jam, blueberry and subtle creamy oak this smells immediately appealing. On the palate just medium bodied with a fine sense of freshness and elegance - it fans out and spreads flavour though the mouth in the most delightfully gracious manner. It tastes of sour cherry jam (but not too sweet), tart blueberries and plenty of exotic spice - all light and fresh with fine feathery tannins and a long spicy finish. Marvellous wine. A Shiraz for Pinot fanciers perhaps?

Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $38
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2016+
Source : Winery Sample
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The Story Grampians Shiraz 2006 Monday, May 12 2008 

The Story ShirazHmmm well I think I like this one a little more than the 2005 vintage (more length) so logically I need to give it a slightly higher score, even though I have both 92 and 93 written on my pad (a trend you might begin to notice). I’d need to taste them side by side to be absolutely sure, rather than many months apart, but I’m as confident as you can ever be when dealing in absolutes. Well that’s my story anyway, and I’m sticking to it.

It’s fragrant and creamy with spice and pepper over dark cherry and fresh blackberry and a bit of the old liquorice coming up with air. It feels medium bodied in the mouth with excellent flow and nice fine smooth tannins, acidity perhaps a little unsettled at this early age, but set for a long future. There’s no heat or over-ripeness - just beautiful blackberry/dark cherry fruit seasoned with pepper, spice and subtle creamy oak running onto a good long finish. A boastful advertisement for stylish Grampians Shiraz at a painfully modest price.

Other vintages : 2005

Rated : 93 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $20
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2009 - 2016+
Source : Winery Sample
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Vasse Felix Heytesbury Red 2005 Friday, May 9 2008 

Vasse Felix CabernetI’m having a couple of major problems with all these 2005 Margaret River Cabernets, namely those of limited funds and finite capacity. This year’s Heytesbury is all Margaret River with just a sneaky little addition of 5% Shiraz and is a barrel selection rather than a single vineyard wine (as per usual). There won’t be a 2006 vintage release so the intention is to stretch this out until the 2007 Heytesbury becomes available.

Flamboyant, complex and highly aromatic with a mix of ripe cherry and cassis, violet, dark chocolate and spice tempered by more herbal influences of peppermint, gum leaf and snapped green twigs. It’s also appropriately gravelly and earthy as is the way with the best Margaret River Cabernets. On the palate full bodied and flooded with ripe cassis and cherry fruit, dried herbs and mocha flavours - a wine of considerable impact, depth and drama. It has strong ripe chalky tannins, superb balance and a long dry finish. A wine that resonates in the memory long after tasting.

Rated : 96 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $70
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2014 - 2020+
Source : Winery Sample
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Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Friday, May 9 2008 

Moss WoodA new label for the 2005 vintage (of which you can read more about in the excellent Moss Wood newsletter here), and while I miss the old one, the contents of the bottle more than adequately compensate for the loss of gold trim; this is easily the best since the mighty 2001 vintage. The oak is less obvious and it’s more refined and balanced (and less warm and chocolaty) than some of the more recent vintages. I tasted it alongside the soon to be released Vasse Felix Heytesbury of the same year, and while they are quite different wines and hard to separate qualitatively, it was the svelte charm of the Moss Wood that tipped the scale. A style preference in more ways than one.

A gorgeous smelling wine that immediately pulls at the purse strings of the Cabernet enthusiast - it offers mulberry and dark fruit, a violet perfume, spice, fine cedar oak and that gravel and wet cement aromatic that is so typical of the region (at least for me). In the mouth quiet authority and grace is the order of the day with ultra fine mouth coating tannins, ripe fruit, oak and alcohol all in perfect balance. It’s appropriately dry and savoury but not at the expense of bright fresh Cabernet fruit flavours. Long and satisfying this is a wine of rare balance and significant ageing potential. Certainly one of the finest Moss Wood releases to date.

Other vintages : 2001, 1999

Rated : 96 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $100
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2015 - 2025+
Source : Cellar Door
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Parigot and Richard Crémant de Bourgogne Blanc de Blanc NV Tuesday, May 6 2008 

Parigot and RichardIn between tasting a whole raft of other things I grabbed this from the fridge in order to refresh the old palate, and what a refreshing change of pace it made. It’s made from Chardonnay and Aligoté (no skins) and offers a refreshing bubble of difference. Imported by Marcus Gniel at Ce Soir Wine of smouldering James Bond style B&W photograph on the back of business card fame.

It opens with indistinct fruitiness, possibly apple and lemon sherbet with a little complex smoky sulphide and a round of cream biscuits. It has a big creamy foamy mouthfeel with lots of bubbles that’s both dry and charming, light, fresh and rather fluffy. A bit like stuffing powder snow into your mouth (although no need to get up after the experience here unless you drink too much). It’s wheaty and delicious. Flavour. Expression. Difference. Style. Drinkability. I love it. Do it. DO IT.

Rated : 90 Points
Tasted : May08
Alcohol : 12%
Price : $33
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2008 - 2010
Source : Importer Sample
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Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2004 Friday, May 2 2008 

Penfolds St HenriI’d suggest buying magnums of this wine; one bottle is clearly not enough in one sitting. We tasted this over a couple of days and the last glass evoked a little tear in the eye and the sound of cash registers ringing in my ears. Ouch..but it’s Awesom-o.

This offered a remarkable array of smells and flavours over several days with brazil nuts, flowers, cocoa, blackberry, plum, roast lamb and mint being the big ticket items on its glorious olfactory shopping list. It does have some oak showing on the nose but it’s well into the background. In the mouth medium to full bodied with powerful cherry and berry fruit and a violet mouth perfume combining with more savoury roast meat flavours. It’s fresh and smooth with strong ripe tannins that melted down into an almost creamy mouth filling texture with extended breathing. Enormous length of flavour. It’s destined to become one of the greats.

Other vintages : 2003, 2003, 2002, 2002, 1997, 1995, 1991, 1986, 1976, 1971

Rated : 96+ Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $90
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2020 - 2030+
Source : Winery Sample
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Petaluma Coonawarra 2005 Monday, Apr 28 2008 

Petaluma RedIt’s still sealed with a cork but a nice long cork, and one of excellent quality that will surely please the aesthetes amongst us. This year sees a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the introduction of two brand new grapey chums - 5% Petit Verdot (Evans Vineyard) and 5% Malbec (Sharefarmers Vineyard)

It’s fragrant, violetty and perfumed with aniseed and spice over blackberry, blackcurrant, cedar oak and mineral. Cool, calm and collected. On the palate medium bodied and fine - a wine of effortless sophistication that combines perfectly ripe fruit without excess sweetness or alcohol warmth, a flourish of savoury black olive and graphite with polished cedary French oak in support. It has fine smooth tannins, clean fresh acidity and feels fluid and calm throughout, finishing long and dry. Benchmark Coonawarra.

Other vintages : 2004, 1998

Rated : 96 Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $65
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2015 - 2025+
Source : Winery Sample
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Elderton Shiraz 2005 Tuesday, Apr 22 2008 

EldertonI have all the Elderton Estate wines lined up for tasting, including a new (I think) 2007 Zinfandel. I thought I’d kick things off with the Shiraz and I don’t mind telling you this is the vinous equivalent of a torp from 60 metres straight through the posts. I was expecting something pretty decent, but this is a bit special.

It smells rich and fruity, but not heavy, offering up blackberry, violet, spice, vanilla, aniseed and mocha. On the palate full bodied but fresh with lush dark fruit, aniseed, brown spices and vanilla coffee oak - nothing over played with exemplary fruit and oak balance. It has ultra-smooth velveteen tannins, a gorgeous seductive mouthfeel and a long spicy finish. It’s a complete wine of breed and enormous drinkablity at a bargain price…and I’m a huge fan.

Other vintages : 2004

Rated : 94 Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $25
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2018
Source : Winery Sample
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Langwerth Von Simmern Hattenheimer Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007 Tuesday, Apr 15 2008 

LANGWERTH VON SIMMERN HATTENHEIMER RIESLING KABINETT TROCKEN 2007

The Barons Langwerth von Simmerns’ history in the Rheingau dates back to 1464. This makes them the oldest continuously operated family business in the world. Their estate commands 26 acres of some of the best vineyards in the Rheingau, which are now run by the Baron George and his wife Baroness Andrea Langwerth von Simmern.

If you open it young you’ll be greeted by a bit of free sulphur (nothing too daunting mind you) but then comes the reward - an explosion of citrus, white peach, mineral and spice. It’s racy and spritzy on the palate with tingling sherbetty flavours of tangerine, lime, lemon and passionfruit sorbet and fairly bursts through the mouth. It has strong acidity to balance the juicy fruit and finishes very long with a tangy acid bite on exit. It’s a powerhouse of Riesling purity - a brilliant Kabinett.

Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 12.5%
Price : $30
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2020+
Source : Importer Sample
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Punt Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Monday, Apr 14 2008 

Punt Road CabernetGee this is good for $25. I suppose Cabernet Sauvignon is not the most fashionable variety for the Yarra Valley any more but it’s the one with the most runs on the board (so far). So if you are looking for a top cabernet, with an abundance of style, for not a lot money, then you’d be foolish not to take a punt on this.

It’s ripe and luscious but not overly so with blackcurrant, cedar, violet, earthy tobaccoey things, bayleaf and spice. On the palate medium to full bodied with a flood of cassis, briar, earth and spice - sweet fruit and savoury interest. It feels supple and fluid with fine grained powdery tannins and flows through the mouth in a most appealing and seductive manner. Good long finish too. Very highly recommended.

Rated : 92+ Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $25
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2015+
Source : Winery Sample
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Puriri Hills Reserve 2005 Friday, Apr 11 2008 

Puriri Hills Reserve 2005

Made from a 5 acre vineyard in Clevedon, about 40 minutes by car from Auckland, and blended to reflect the relative proportions of Merlot, Carmenere, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec in the vineyard.

A fascinating nose, showing red currants, tobacco leaf, not quite tomato leaf, dried herbs and faintly smoky stalks. There are also hints of blackcurrants, and some mulch and leaf. A glass swirler. A sensual and sensational palate, red currant, blackcurrant, blackberry, cedary dryness, herby and savoury, and some stalk on the finish (but it’s not green). Very tasty stuff, but it is the velvety tannins, the fantastic mouthfeel and the length that just goes on and on that makes this an outstanding wine. Well worth having a few in the cellar.

Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 13.5%
Price : $82
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2010 - 2018
Source : The Wine Emporium
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Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Thursday, Apr 10 2008 

XanaduThis arrived yesterday, in amongst a couple of dozen other samples, and because I am a Cabernet man I wasted no time in tucking in. Too much Margaret River Cabernet is barely enough if you ask me. Anyway, I really like this and I have 92 or 93 scribbled on my pad, but as we all know (I hope) the score is only a small part of the story, so just to make it perfectly clear, this comes with my emphatic approval in all departments - value, quality, style etc.

It has a delightful violet and gum leaf perfume over mulberry, blackcurrant and chocolate with a handful of gravel thrown in for good measure. On the palate medium to full bodied with perfectly ripe fruit offering blackcurrant, mulberry, chocolate, some more earthy flavours and a touch of leafiness. It has fine firm tannins and feels beautifully balanced from start to finish. A delightful wine of considerable grace and sophistication.

Rated : 92 Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $25
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2015
Source : Winery Sample
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Wickhams Road Gippsland Chardonnay 2007 Thursday, Apr 3 2008 

Wickhams RoadIs there a mental asylum on Wickhams Road by any chance? The fruit for this beautiful wine comes off a vineyard managed by Hoddles Creek Estate who control the complete process from vine to retail. Winemaker/inmate Franco d’Anna says

Cropped at 1.3 tonnes per acre, only shoot thinned as bunch thinning was not required. Minimal irrigation, hand picked in the morning then cooled overnight. Made the same way as Hoddles Creek, mixture of yeasts, no fining, no enzymes, no acid adjustments and only 20% new oak instead of 30%.

Left in barrel for 12 months, with occasional lees stirring. Filtered and bottled.

Aromas of citrus, nectarine, a touch of struck match and vanilla and almond essence jump out of the glass. On the palate light to medium bodied with flavours of ruby red grapefruit, tangerine, preserved lemon and a little spice. It’s bursting with intense fruit, and has incredible focus and line courtesy of a spine of strong yet fine acidity - tight, crisp, pure and lengthy. And while perhaps it’s not especially complex (and it’s still a very young wine mind you), the clarity, precision and flavour overwhelmingly persuade me to bump this up to an outstanding rating. I love it and I’ll be buying it.

Rated : 94 Points
Tasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 13%
Price : $14.99
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2013
Source : Winery Sample
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Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2005 Tuesday, Apr 1 2008 

Penfolds Bin 389I was up for buying a few bottles of this the minute it hit my chops. Those bottles, of course, will be screwcap sealed as that is my preferred option but hooray for Penfolds for giving the consumer the choice; cork, screwcap…or both!

Oh lovely with it’s mix of blackcurrant, plum and blueberry fruit, licorice, bay leaf, cocoa and dusty vanilla oak. On the palate a wine of immediate impact and strength, striding through the mouth with purpose and grace; and it’s that combination of balance, power and structure that clearly sets it apart from most of its contemporaries. It has a wide spread of powder fine tannin, clean acid to balance and superb length of flavour. A great (and thoroughly Australian) wine.

Other vintages: 2005, 2004, 2003

Rated : 96 Points
Tasted : Mar08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $58
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2015 - 2025+
Source : Winery Sample
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Pirathon Shiraz 2006 Sunday, Mar 30 2008 

Pirathon Kalleske ShirazThe name “Pirathon” celebrates a famous punch up (known locally as the battle of Pirathon) that happened outside the Tanunda pub circa 2005AD (around 9.30PM) between Helen of Troy Kalleske and visiting celebrity Paris Hilton. The trouble started when the wily Hector (of Tulloch) claimed his one dollar coin was next in line for a go on the pool table but Troy’s mate Achilles (owner of the local kebab shop) would have none of it. Paris had kept a lazy eye on the dashing Hector for most of the evening, and in a show of support and quite possibly with the intention of blowing the froth off a couple with him later on, set her dog onto Achilles. Although small in stature, he was both plucky and smart, and went straight for Achillies’ heel. “Struth!”, yelped Achillies, “It bloody bit me.”..and after that is was on for young and old….

Fabulous smelling wine packed with dark Barossan goodness and offering things like black fruit, dark chocolate, baking spices (nutmeg, cloves, allspice), roses, tar and a little menthol lift. The oak is unobtrusive and beautifully folded into the wine. On the palate full bodied with rich black fruit, a little raspberry, dark chocolate and spicy flavours. It’s smooth, ripe and long and enormously satisfying to drink. I think it’s probably even better than the 2005…so perhaps I should score it higher. Regardless, I’d recommend getting onto and into a bit of this gear without reservation.

Other vintages : 2005

Rated : 93 Points
Tasted : Mar08
Alcohol : 15%
Price : $24
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2008 - 2016+
Source : Winery Sample
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Norton Estate “Arapiles Run” Shiraz 2005 Thursday, Mar 27 2008 

Norton Estate It’s about 6km outside the Grampians GI but I’m popping it in anyway. Tastes like Grampians and I like it better than some of the bigger (and more expensive) names from the region (or not as the case may be). So there we have it. Just call me GI Joe. I know no boundaries.

Aromatic and packed with exotic spice it fairly bursts with black cherry, blackberries, new leather and creamy vanilla oak. On the palate just above medium bodied with beautiful velvety tannins, balanced alcohol, clean acidity and a lush creamy texture. It offers sweet black cherry fruit, licorice, spice and vanilla and fairly ripples along the palate in a most seductive manner, closing with a long black fruit and spice aftertaste. It’s an absolute beauty and I strongly recommended it to fanciers of spicy Western Victorian Shiraz.

Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : Mar08
Alcohol : 13.8%
Price : $35
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2020
Source : Winery Sample
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Veronique Regions Shiraz 2006 Monday, Mar 24 2008 

VeroniqueYet again I have lost the press release but using the powers of my mind I can tell you this is made by Domenic Torzi from parcels of fruit sourced from across the Barossa Valley. Lyndoch, Eden Valley and hmmm might have been Greenock. I’m sure someone will let me know.

Grapes come from Lyndoch old vine Shiraz owned by a 6th generation Lyndoch family. This site lies in Rowland Flat along the foothills behind the original plantings by Colin Gramp. The Shiraz fruit once supplied Grant Burge for his Meshach…a truly flavour punch site.

Greenock site which is surrounded by Grange Shiraz..not his block though..it was full of plums, peaches and apricots..up rooted they went and in went Grange cuttings from next door. It’s a remarkable block for its youth.

Old vine Angaston Shiraz owned by a 4th generation Angaston grape grower. This site lies along side Henschke sourced old vine shiraz fruit. This fruit for many years supplied Barossa Valley Estate for its E & E Shiraz…it’s a super site with thin soil of iron stone.

Rich and black with cherry jam, black fruits, menthol, liquorice, Bounty Bars and vanilla oak. Flamboyant, not exactly subtle, but very winning. On the palate full bodied but not heavy; it drinks beautifully with its flavours of sweet black fruit, cherry and dark chocolate. It has smooth ripe tannin and an even flow through the mouth. It’s a gorgeous easy going crowd pleaser of the very highest quality.

Other vintages : 2005

Rated : 92 Points
Tasted : Mar08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $19
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2008 - 2016
Source : Winery Sample
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