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I opened this last night alongside the Meerea Park Hell Hole and Thomas Kiss of the same vintage (more later), all three excellent wines, but on the night this was my favourite, or at least the best to drink now. I’ll re-taste the other two tonight but the Graveyard is all gone; it was just too good to leave alone. Is it worth $125? For myself, the answer is yes, and I’ll be popping a couple of bottles into the cellar.

Wonderful depth of fruit with blackcurrants and blackberry, pepper, coffee, vanilla and aniseed all playing their part in the clean ripe aromas that jump from the glass. It’s just above medium bodied with juicy black fruits, cherry, mocha, cedar and lots of pepper and spice - intense and pretty full on. Perfect balance between fruit, oak, alcohol, acid and fine dry tannin creates an effortless flow through the mouth and the finish is very long and dry with a coffee bean aftertaste. Great wine.

Other vintages : 2004

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This is from a total production of 64 dozen and as at yesterday I believe there are about six or ten cases left at the winery (I forget which but I’m sure the number is nearly as fluid as the wine).

Perfumed and crammed with Chinese five spice, sour cherry jam, blueberry and subtle creamy oak this smells immediately appealing. On the palate just medium bodied with a fine sense of freshness and elegance - it fans out and spreads flavour though the mouth in the most delightfully gracious manner. It tastes of sour cherry jam (but not too sweet), tart blueberries and plenty of exotic spice - all light and fresh with fine feathery tannins and a long spicy finish. Marvellous wine. A Shiraz for Pinot fanciers perhaps?

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I’m having a couple of major problems with all these 2005 Margaret River Cabernets, namely those of limited funds and finite capacity. This year’s Heytesbury is all Margaret River with just a sneaky little addition of 5% Shiraz and is a barrel selection rather than a single vineyard wine (as per usual). There won’t be a 2006 vintage release so the intention is to stretch this out until the 2007 Heytesbury becomes available.

Flamboyant, complex and highly aromatic with a mix of ripe cherry and cassis, violet, dark chocolate and spice tempered by more herbal influences of peppermint, gum leaf and snapped green twigs. It’s also appropriately gravelly and earthy as is the way with the best Margaret River Cabernets. On the palate full bodied and flooded with ripe cassis and cherry fruit, dried herbs and mocha flavours - a wine of considerable impact, depth and drama. It has strong ripe chalky tannins, superb balance and a long dry finish. A wine that resonates in the memory long after tasting.

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A new label for the 2005 vintage (of which you can read more about in the excellent Moss Wood newsletter here), and while I miss the old one, the contents of the bottle more than adequately compensate for the loss of gold trim; this is easily the best since the mighty 2001 vintage. The oak is less obvious and it’s more refined and balanced (and less warm and chocolaty) than some of the more recent vintages. I tasted it alongside the soon to be released Vasse Felix Heytesbury of the same year, and while they are quite different wines and hard to separate qualitatively, it was the svelte charm of the Moss Wood that tipped the scale. A style preference in more ways than one.

A gorgeous smelling wine that immediately pulls at the purse strings of the Cabernet enthusiast - it offers mulberry and dark fruit, a violet perfume, spice, fine cedar oak and that gravel and wet cement aromatic that is so typical of the region (at least for me). In the mouth quiet authority and grace is the order of the day with ultra fine mouth coating tannins, ripe fruit, oak and alcohol all in perfect balance. It’s appropriately dry and savoury but not at the expense of bright fresh Cabernet fruit flavours. Long and satisfying this is a wine of rare balance and significant ageing potential. Certainly one of the finest Moss Wood releases to date.

Other vintages : 2001, 1999

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I’d suggest buying magnums of this wine; one bottle is clearly not enough in one sitting. We tasted this over a couple of days and the last glass evoked a little tear in the eye and the sound of cash registers ringing in my ears. Ouch..but it’s Awesom-o.

This offered a remarkable array of smells and flavours over several days with brazil nuts, flowers, cocoa, blackberry, plum, roast lamb and mint being the big ticket items on its glorious olfactory shopping list. It does have some oak showing on the nose but it’s well into the background. In the mouth medium to full bodied with powerful cherry and berry fruit and a violet mouth perfume combining with more savoury roast meat flavours. It’s fresh and smooth with strong ripe tannins that melted down into an almost creamy mouth filling texture with extended breathing. Enormous length of flavour. It’s destined to become one of the greats.

Other vintages : 2003, 2003, 2002, 2002, 1997, 1995, 1991, 1986, 1976, 1971

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It’s still sealed with a cork but a nice long cork, and one of excellent quality that will surely please the aesthetes amongst us. This year sees a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the introduction of two brand new grapey chums - 5% Petit Verdot (Evans Vineyard) and 5% Malbec (Sharefarmers Vineyard)

It’s fragrant, violetty and perfumed with aniseed and spice over blackberry, blackcurrant, cedar oak and mineral. Cool, calm and collected. On the palate medium bodied and fine - a wine of effortless sophistication that combines perfectly ripe fruit without excess sweetness or alcohol warmth, a flourish of savoury black olive and graphite with polished cedary French oak in support. It has fine smooth tannins, clean fresh acidity and feels fluid and calm throughout, finishing long and dry. Benchmark Coonawarra.

Other vintages : 2004, 1998

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I was up for buying a few bottles of this the minute it hit my chops. Those bottles, of course, will be screwcap sealed as that is my preferred option but hooray for Penfolds for giving the consumer the choice; cork, screwcap…or both!

Oh lovely with it’s mix of blackcurrant, plum and blueberry fruit, licorice, bay leaf, cocoa and dusty vanilla oak. On the palate a wine of immediate impact and strength, striding through the mouth with purpose and grace; and it’s that combination of balance, power and structure that clearly sets it apart from most of its contemporaries. It has a wide spread of powder fine tannin, clean acid to balance and superb length of flavour. A great (and thoroughly Australian) wine.

Other vintages: 2005, 2004, 2003

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It’s about 6km outside the Grampians GI but I’m popping it in anyway. Tastes like Grampians and I like it better than some of the bigger (and more expensive) names from the region (or not as the case may be). So there we have it. Just call me GI Joe. I know no boundaries.

Aromatic and packed with exotic spice it fairly bursts with black cherry, blackberries, new leather and creamy vanilla oak. On the palate just above medium bodied with beautiful velvety tannins, balanced alcohol, clean acidity and a lush creamy texture. It offers sweet black cherry fruit, licorice, spice and vanilla and fairly ripples along the palate in a most seductive manner, closing with a long black fruit and spice aftertaste. It’s an absolute beauty and I strongly recommended it to fanciers of spicy Western Victorian Shiraz.

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A big wine from a big year. This is 81% Cabernet, 14% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 100% Margaret River. Of recent vintages it reminds me most of the brooding 2001 rather than the charming 2003.

Strong and ripe with blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate, violet, some eucalyptus and a good measure of cedar/vanilla oak. On the palate full bodied and generous with flavours of cherry, plum and mulberry, some chocolate richness, a bit of floral mouth perfume, a little tobacco savouriness and sweet vanilla oak in support. It has plenty of ripe earthy gravelly Margaret River tannin, balanced acidity and takes a long line through the mouth. A powerhouse with high potential. Be patient with this one - it needs time to unfurl before it really flies.

Other vintages : 2003, 1998, 1996

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“Good things come to those who wait”..or so they say..and the same person probably sometimes says “Third time lucky”…but not so lucky this time Mister because I managed to get my hands on it first; it’s supposed to be the third bottle they have sent along. And Pants Pie it’s good. Cork enthusiasts will also be well pleased by the length and smoothness of the bark closure.

It smells of raspberries and dark berries, aniseed, chocolate, new leather, spice and coffee. Beautiful and nothing overdone. On the palate medium to full bodied with outstanding quality fruit - the flavours are of dark berry mixed with fresh pippy raspberry, licorice, chocolate and spice with an underlying dark Barossan savouriness that’s always so appealing. Smooth fine grained tannin, freshness and length of palate are hallmarks of this wine of superb balance and style. It’s so good it made me feel like rushing out and buying some.

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Hot on the heels of a conversation regarding filling a few holes in our collection of 1996 vintage Champagne, I commented to JP after tasting this that surely it must be a case purchase? ‘Now we’re talking’ she said, shortly followed by ‘Twelve years and he finally gets it!’ This is right up there with the 2002 in terms of quality and from the first sip I knew that this was the wine for me. The 2006 must be pants wettingly good if it’s any better than this…

Immediately proclaims itself a wine of great breed and power with aromas of nectarine, grapefruit, dried pear, yeast and spicy oak. On the palate the promise of the nose is kept and delivered most abundantly with intense fruit offering flavours of grapefruit, nectarine, cinnamon and clove spiced preserved lemons, cracked wheat and fine French oak. It has great drive and purpose through the palate covering all dimensions (width, length and depth), penetrating clean grapefruity acidity, a pleasing slightly flinty texture and enormous length of flavour. A truly glorious wine.

Other vintages : 2004, 2003, 2002, 2001, 1999, 1992

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I can’t remember being more impressed by a range of wines than with these 2006 vintage releases from Timo Mayer - for sheer quality and drinkability they really take some beating. This, in the winemakers words, is

10% whole bunch, not copper fined on purpose, try to get some burnt rubber into it, bring back the funk.

Well take a bow chicka bow bow Timo…because the mothership has landed safely baby. eMail enquiries to timomayer@bigpond.com.au

Complex, cool, fragrant and multi-layered with a mix of blackcurrant and blackberry, smoke, pepper, spice, aniseed and meat - each sniff presents you with something new…and interesting. On the palate just over medium bodied with perfect weight and balance offering up smooth flavours of black and blue fruits, plenty of spice, cold coffee and meat. It has supple fine grained tannin and feels vital and lively in the mouth - just so good and satisfying to drink - and has fabulous length of flavour to boot. Delivers pretty much everything I want in a cool climate shiraz.

Other vintages: 2005, 2004

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I love the cheeky label. The fruit for this special wine comes from one acre of close planted Pinot on the Mayer vineyard and is a selection massale, mostly from the Old Back at De Bortoli (MV4 and 5) and The Drive (MV6). The vines are planted 75 cm apart (almost 6000/ha) and as a result are very low cropping. It includes 30% whole bunch in the ferment in order to “bring back the funk” in the words of winemaker Timo Mayer who is, as ever, ready and waiting to take your call on 1800 timomayer@bigpond.com.au

Really fragrant whole bunch characters coupled with red fruit, spice, fennel and clean soil make for a dynamic, uplifting and aromatically charged wine. On the palate medium bodied with spicy creamy red fruit, licorice and minerally earthy flavours of excellent concentration, clarity and weight. It has fresh acidity and fine lightly stemmy tannins that present with a quiet air of authority - gentle yet firm - and a good long finish closing with flavours of licorice and a little stalk. A wine with an abundance of personality and character and one that’s an absolute pleasure to drink. I only wish there were more like it.

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Much like people, there are some wines that just click with you when you taste them (not that I generally lick people..well only when I really like them maybe..woof woof), and this is one such wine. I just love it…so much so that I really want to give it 95 points but have to hold myself back. You can’t let emotions get in the way of (attempted) objectivity. It is a blend of 85% Margaret River and 15% Great Southern comprising 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, 5% Shiraz and 3% Malbec.

A captivating mix of juicy dark berries, cassis, eucalpyt, coffee bean, aniseed and cedar oak. Rich, almost cakey, but balanced with attractive leafy Cabernet characters. On the palate medium to full bodied with cassis, red berry, aniseed and some leafy tobacco flavours backed with well judged cedar and vanilla oak. It has marvellous shape and drive through the palate with firm dry tannins and a fine sense of freshness and vitality. It feels good to drink. A big finish closes out an outstanding example of Margaret River Cabernet. It’s strongly to my personal taste. It’s the sort of wine that makes me want to buy a case.

Other vintages: 2004, 1999

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Hey hey…you No 1 Mister. Me love you long time!

A seductive mix of ripe (but fresh) black fruits, aniseed, coal, chocolate box, spice and well measured toasty vanilla oak. Sensational. On the palate full bodied with oceans of mouth filling black and red fruit, spice, mocha, aniseed and tar flavours. Not heavy, this is really fresh and lively with rolling waves of fine tannin and refreshing clean acidity. Persistent and long. What a great Shiraz.

Other vintages: 2003

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If you can’t get Rockford Basket Press then I would look to this particular wine for an equally good (and cheaper) substitute. For me it epitomises all the best qualities of great Barossa shiraz. Generous but refined, smooth yet powerful and it drinks well young or old. In short, this is a belter.

Red purple colour. Aromas of plum, raspberry, coal dust, aniseed, chocolate, roses and spicy vanilla oak. You could smell it all day if it didn’t make you so thirsty! On the palate medium to full bodied with plum, raspberry, coal and milk chocolate flavours backed with subtle spicy oak. Mouth filling, smooth and supple with fine grained tannin and superb balance throughout. Finishes long with sweet rose tinged fruit. All class.

Other vintages: 2004

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Well slap my arse and call me Judy if I’m not picking some absolute beauties from the pile to review at the moment. I don’t buy much wine these days (I have too much in the cellar) but I’ll be tucking a few of these away for sure.

Bright cherry red. Pure and fragrant with aromas of cherry, raspberry, spice and vanilla resting on a forest floor. On the palate beautifully poised and balanced with pure red fruits, spice, undergrowth and vanilla. Light and airy with crisp fresh acidity and a gentle rasp of tannin like a lick from a kittens tongue. Pulls through the palate with purpose and finishes crisp, dry and long. A wine of clarity and definition. Yes.

Other vintages: 2005

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This is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon of which half takes a three month spell in French barriques of which two thirds are new. Never mind all that though because this wine is just wow!. So wow! it impressed the pants off me and as a result I am sitting here typing up this note in my underpants…

Aromas of passionfruit, fresh pineapple, cut grass, fennel, cream and spice. Multi-layered it strikes that rare and perfect balance between herbaceous and fruity elements. Fresh, poised and precise it has crystalline acidity and a lightly creamy textured palate with flavours of tropical fruit, grapefruit, grass and spice. There’s also a funky earthy character adding complexity. Seamless and long with a dry spicy finish - this is just about as good as it gets.

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Did you know you can use Google as a dictionary? You just type in define: and then your word.

Define: PHI - the 21st letter of the Greek alphabet
Define: Hyperbole - extravagant exaggeration

Hyperbole comes from the Greek to throw beyond and this wine is not only a curved ball for Sauvignon Blanc drinkers but also seems to make one prone to bouts of adjectival gibberish as evidenced by Jukes and Stelzer’s thoroughly loopy tasting notes on the press release. Problem is when you drink the wine you immediately forgive their purple prose…now ’scuse me while I kiss the sky…

Subdued and sophisticated with aromas of unripe pineapple, citrus, jasmine, flint, herb and spice. Subtle and superb. On the palate it is light and fine boned yet deep and satisfying. It offers citrus, fresh pineapple, green melon, dried herb, mineral and creamed honey flavours and combines a soft glossy feel with a dry flinty texture and juicy pithy grapefruity acidity. Finishes dry and long. A remarkable wine from start to finish.

Other vintages : 2006

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This is the first of three 2006 red releases from De Iuliis and is their ‘traditional’ Hunter shiraz offering. The fruit for this vintage is sourced from the prostigious Stevens vineyard.

Strong red purple colour. Aromas of crushed berries, spice and violets with a dusting of vanilla and chocolate and only slightly more Hunter Earth than you would scrape off a Blundstone after a gentle walk round the vineyard. This is fragrant and spotlessly clean. On the palate medium bodied with fresh berry fruit, spice, violet and a little earth and chocolate. It has light powdery tannins offering a lovely lightly chalky texture and has impeccable line through the palate. Finishes long and clean with bright fruit with a little drop of vanilla to close. It’s a beauty.

Other vintages : 2005

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