Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2004 Friday, May 2 2008
Tasting Notes and Australia and Barossa Valley and Langhorne Ck and Adelaide Hills and Wines of the Month and Tip Top Tipple and Variety and Red and shiraz et al

I’d suggest buying magnums of this wine; one bottle is clearly not enough in one sitting. We tasted this over a couple of days and the last glass evoked a little tear in the eye and the sound of cash registers ringing in my ears. Ouch..but it’s Awesom-o.
This offered a remarkable array of smells and flavours over several days with brazil nuts, flowers, cocoa, blackberry, plum, roast lamb and mint being the big ticket items on its glorious olfactory shopping list. It does have some oak showing on the nose but it’s well into the background. In the mouth medium to full bodied with powerful cherry and berry fruit and a violet mouth perfume combining with more savoury roast meat flavours. It’s fresh and smooth with strong ripe tannins that melted down into an almost creamy mouth filling texture with extended breathing. Enormous length of flavour. It’s destined to become one of the greats.
Other vintages : 2003, 2003, 2002, 2002, 1997, 1995, 1991, 1986, 1976, 1971
Rated : 96+ PointsTasted : Apr08
Alcohol : 14.5%
Price : $90
Closure : Cork
Drink : 2020 - 2030+
Source : Winery Sample
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57 Responses to “Penfolds St Henri Shiraz 2004”
May 2nd, 2008 at 9:50 am
But $90? Ouch!
I paid $53 for the 2002 and I’ve still got some 96 I paid $36 for. No reason to think the 05 and 06 won’t be as good so I’ll wait and see how much of it is left when the 05 is released before I rush in. 30% off sale = $63. I might go for it then.
May 2nd, 2008 at 9:55 am
I bought mine last night @$56 (I had a 20% voucher from VC that I had been saving for this purpose - I presume it can’t be had any cheaper). I shall try my tasting bottle tonight, but am off to the sunny Netherlands tomorrow, so may not be able to report back with haste. As the only truly dedicated St Henri-ist on the vinous desert that is the Gold Coast (sounds like something Daffyd would say), I look forward to this with much anticipation. From your TN, I should not touch my 2nd for quite some time. I am expecting to regret not having bought more of this, but I still have eight ’99s and eight ’02s to go, not to mention some odds and ends back to ‘94, so I thought cellaring 6 would be enough. Oh dear …
It should be better than the 20 euro bottles of Jacob’s Creek on offer in Dutch supermarkets. At least Belgian beer is cheap in the low countries …
May 2nd, 2008 at 9:57 am
Decant it for about six hours.
GW
May 2nd, 2008 at 10:00 am
That is RRP Rodney. It is $69.99 at VC. I haven’t checked out DM or First Choice yet (I suspect the latter will also be $70). I doubt much ‘04 will be left to be perfectly honest, ‘02 was very hard to get at a reasonable price after a month or so since it was a very good wine in my opinion. There are ‘03 around, but I didn’t buy, and I presume that other aficionados thought likewise.
May 2nd, 2008 at 10:02 am
Advice taken Gary - I’m at home today having a hard-earned bludge, so this should be easy.
May 2nd, 2008 at 10:05 am
Eight bottles of this or one bottle of Grange. If you look at it that way then it’s a snip
GW
May 2nd, 2008 at 10:40 am
MichaelC said :
I thought it was “No Further Discount” at VC MichaelC? Did they query it?
May 2nd, 2008 at 12:17 pm
Cracking wine. After tasting it I also experienced a similar audible hallucination of cash registers and emptying wallets.
May 2nd, 2008 at 2:42 pm
Don’t wait too long for better prices, it is selling quickly.
May 2nd, 2008 at 3:15 pm
You must have connections with Fosters
May 2nd, 2008 at 3:30 pm
I’m not going over $65 on principle. So if it’s all gone before someone has a 30% off sale then I’ll miss out and just crack a 96 and drown my sorrows.
May 2nd, 2008 at 3:33 pm
That’s letting ‘em know Rodney!
May 2nd, 2008 at 3:46 pm
It’s one of best Shiraz I have had in a very long while. I reckon $65.01 is still value all things considered.
GW
May 2nd, 2008 at 3:51 pm
I might stretch to $65.50 if I find a 50c piece on the street on the way to the shop.
May 2nd, 2008 at 4:38 pm
Regarding Tonsta’s query, no they did not question it. Just provide enough bulls%#t and bluff and they’ll accept it. The trick with these things is not to look sheepish!! Besides, I think I was within my rights according to the conditions of the voucher.
May 2nd, 2008 at 5:11 pm
Thanks for the advice - did manage to procure a couple of Magnums.
May 2nd, 2008 at 5:37 pm
Bought six for $66.50… the guy at VC gave me 5% off even though it said no further discounts. I too was saving my last 20% off voucher for this purpose but alas, “No Further Discounts”… So lucky you MichaelC!
I’ve just poured it into the decanter and have a 20ml sample I’m about to try…
Ok just had it. Not giving much away at the moment, and quite a bit of sediment too.. (it was from the bottom of the bottle)
Just had another tiny little pour from the decanter and its already looking better…
Look forward to see the rest of it at dinner tonight
May 2nd, 2008 at 5:50 pm
Add to tonights chopping block..
2005 Bremerton Old Adam Shiraz.
The theme has become “highly anticipated releases…”
May 2nd, 2008 at 8:07 pm
Gary
Is all the 04 sealed in cork??
May 2nd, 2008 at 9:53 pm
I think it’s all cork.
GW
May 3rd, 2008 at 2:07 am
MichaelT said :
Cracking wine, excellent follow up to 2004, not sure bout the St Henri’s but the Bremmo is only $45….
May 3rd, 2008 at 12:49 pm
I am currently in the vinous horror that is the Qantas Club (luckily they have beer), but would like to add my 2 cents’ worth. I followed Gary’s advice about a 6 hour decant. He was wrong. It really started to sing with closer to eight.
This is a mighty wine. There is already a bit of sediment, but a good St Henri is always this way (which is perhaps why I don’t much like the ‘98 - still no mud on a showing earlier this year!). My only qualm is that a 13.5% or 14.0% St Henri would have been more table friendly, but it hides it’s ABV masterfully. It is dense, brooding and needs considerable air time foir your first try. Then lock the rest of your bottles away. The only think that will kill it is the Penfolds cork.
In short, South Australian Shiraz at its finest. 97 points, which is a high water mark for me with this wine (1993 and after). (sorry if this sounds like a Fosters press release …)
May 3rd, 2008 at 2:00 pm
Yes..well I suppose the 6 hours was arbitrary. I tasted it over 2 nights - 1/2 bottle left over night in the fridge, which was when the wine started to sing. Just opened 2003 Grange which will take a fair old decant I’d say. Smells good. Spicy.
GW
May 3rd, 2008 at 6:49 pm
Simmo said :
Indeed it is. Could easily be an $80 wine.. it was so jam packed with flavour but all in fine balance…
GW - I found the tannin in the St Henri slightly awkward, they didn’t sit well in the context of the whole wine and the exit was grippy and slightly tart without providing the length and elegance I was expecting (using the 2002 as a benchmark). Not enough air time? Did you find it was ever like this in your 2 days of tasting?
May 3rd, 2008 at 6:52 pm
Yes. Very strong tannins on the first day, perfect the next. It is built for longevity, not immediate seduction.
GW
May 3rd, 2008 at 9:04 pm
damn, now I’m curious to crack another one open and give it a 24 hour low surface area/low temp decant.
Why oh why did they not make this under screwcap? it’s baffling isn’t it considering it’s built for longevity.. yet the RWT and 707, and even the super-duper premium 2004 Bin60a and Block 42 wines had screwcap option.
Who makes these decisions at Fosters? Gago?
May 3rd, 2008 at 10:27 pm
First St Henri that I didn’t buy because they didn’t bottle under screwcap. Ended up with the 707 actually. What is happening to me? I can only hope Penfolds follows me as I like my St Henri
cheers
Carl
May 4th, 2008 at 5:09 pm
Had a bottle of the ‘71 St Henri today at lunch (sausage ‘n chips). Very nice old chocolaty red.
GW
May 4th, 2008 at 8:50 pm
… as you do.
May 4th, 2008 at 9:51 pm
Luncheon claret
GW
May 6th, 2008 at 9:03 am
many thanks for he commentary, just released in auckland at $NZ66. Based on the above a clear buy. This from the merchant’s email:
“Deeply fragrant with an alluring, floral and ethereal scent of blackberry liqueur, plums, dark cherries and musky spices with minty undertones of restrained oak and sweet leather, this is an elegant, fine-grained and richly flavoured. Its long and brooding, with its restrained expression of pure, pristine fruit overlying a chalky backbone of kernelly tannin. Certain to flesh out magnificently.” 96/100 Jeremy Oliver.
PS I do not want to reopen the pricing debate, just giving information
May 7th, 2008 at 4:41 am
I actually followed Gary’s advice. Bought three magnums. Not too pricey at Foodtown (NZ again).
A bit less for a magnum of this vs a bottle of RWT or 707 so no brainer.
May 7th, 2008 at 7:35 am
Jay, what was the price per magnum, you have got me thinking
May 7th, 2008 at 5:49 pm
I would not normally buy large formats but $139NZ for a magnum … available at Foodtown online. It’s $60 per bottle there so a $20 premium on the magnums. Not too bad.
May 8th, 2008 at 7:24 am
There were a number of magnums at the local woolworths, $NZ139 as well (a discount of $40 odd on the normal retail).
Also ‘05 Bin 389 magnums for $NZ98. I’m waiting for them to discount those.
May 9th, 2008 at 2:44 pm
I know I am thick, but please explain (in as simple words as you like) why I should pay (in round numbers) $140 for a magnum rather than $60 per bottle.
May 9th, 2008 at 2:51 pm
You don’t if you buy Bordeaux on indent in magnum but locally there is a premium to be paid on magnums based most likely on the following list of factors - rarity, desirability (hence collectability), large format fetishism, limited production run and increased bottling costs (if different labels used) but mainly it’s not for economic reasons.
GW
May 9th, 2008 at 3:27 pm
many thanks gary, I was worried I was missing something. As to “large format fetishism” I have no need for another fetish!
May 12th, 2008 at 3:13 pm
Don’t magnums cellar better too?
May 12th, 2008 at 3:18 pm
Yes but I think the question was more aimed at the disparity in pricing between singles and doubles.
GW
May 12th, 2008 at 4:55 pm
COGS are much higher, not to mention packaging line costs. Producer margin is not dissimilar to 750s in many cases.
May 13th, 2008 at 7:43 am
many thanks for the feedback, and yes Gary the question was aimed at the disparity in pricing.
However, I am interested in the notion that a magnum will cellar better. Is that related to closure type (better corks?) or some other explanation that would not be obvious to a relative novice (like me)?
I hope I am not straining your patience with these questions.
May 13th, 2008 at 9:01 am
One reason a magnum may cellar better (longer) than a 750 ml bottle relates to the volume of wine per cork. The contents have less chance of being ruined by a less than perfect cork seal allowing oxygen ingress, there is simply more wine to cope with the same amount of oxygen and the ageing reactions therefore take longer. Of course there is always the chance of double-disappointment when it is actually tainted from the cork.
Anybody seen any magnums under stelvin yet?
May 13th, 2008 at 10:49 am
Anybody seen any magnums under stelvin yet?
Yep. Saltram released a special Cab/Shiraz blend in magnum format a year or so ago and it is under stelvin.
May 13th, 2008 at 11:03 am
05 Meerea Park Alexander Munro Shiraz magnums are screwcap.
GW
May 14th, 2008 at 4:18 pm
Drank a bottle of the 2004 St Henri Shiraz last week at a friends place. We popped and poured the Henri although we drank this over three hours along with some other wines. Wine opened up a bit near the end. Had good floral notes on the nose but wine didnt appear very complex on the palate- some plums & black berries. finish was medium length. We drank a 2003 Domaine Jamet Cote Rotie & the 2005 Philippe Faury St. Joseph which both blew the 2004 St Henri out of the water. Good wine but wont buy again.
May 14th, 2008 at 7:02 pm
TonyTwoTimes said :
The St H needs at least 6 hours in the decanter, or 10 years in the bottle. You have judged it too quickly.
May 15th, 2008 at 1:58 am
I second Lincoln’s motion. There wasn’t much doing with my ’sampler’ after four hours let alone three. The wine in question, contrasted with more approachable styles, died in vain with nobody to love it. I shed a tear …
May 15th, 2008 at 11:21 am
RB said :
There must be scientific studies about how much wine breathes through a cork - does anyone have any good web references/reading?
May 15th, 2008 at 1:47 pm
Based on the longer recommended decanting time of 6-8 hours I opened a bottle this morning before going to work. started drinking the wine after a 10-hour decant and it was definately more open for business than my 1st bottle. lots of black berries, dark currants, and good use of oak. again beautiful floral nose and the finish was longer. will drink the remaining bottle tomorrow to see how it evolves in the fridge. very good bottle of wine but not outstanding. Score: 91.
May 21st, 2008 at 6:37 am
Penfolds Bin 60A magnum is on sale at our supermarket this week for NZ$899 ($500 off). I see it retails normally in oz for A$2000. Youch.
May 21st, 2008 at 8:17 am
Ric, there has been a lot of work done on closures and breathing. Anthony Thus has a bit and may even have the links to the AWRI papers. I have them but they are very large and complex. Suffice to say, the reference point is that a good standard cork is like a diam. Screw caps seal even better. The key feature is that at bottling a wine has a proportion of dissolved oxygen which will age the wine even if a perfect seal is used. The need for breathing/decanting a wine on opening is more complex and generally relates to its phenolic content as well as the time for aromas such as the sulfides to breathe off. The other aspect here is that some flavour compounds are bound to compounds in the wine and the air helps to change the equilibrium of bound Vs unbound. You are spot on re magnums aging.
May 21st, 2008 at 12:09 pm
For a top screw cap magnum check out the last couple of vintages of Tim Adams Aberfeldy. A much underated (and underpriced) Clare Valley shiraz. The fruit comes from an original Birks (of Wendouree fame) vineyard. 06 is set to be a cracker of a vintage in Clare!!
Great discussion on the St Henri. I bought a 6-er as an investment after trying the 04 389 last year which I also bought 6 on release (I tried this next to the 02 grange and was a true ‘baby’ vintage). I find 398/Kalimna to be a good yardstick of the St Henri grade for the following years release- perhaps becuase is it essentially declassified St Henri fruit.
I agree profoundly with the comments made that these wines take time. It is almost fruitless (excuse the pun) to argue rating points on release as they are made for the long haul- to which in good South Australian vintages (90,96,98,02) always pull together strong (vis-a-vis for the poor such as 03, 95 and 97).
Keep up the contructive banter. PS- I do think that $89 is too much for the wine- I picked mine up on release for $69 which I beleive is fair given that the drinking window for this vintage is likely to be 2028+. They will struggle clearing stock in the poor vintages at these prices.
May 22nd, 2008 at 6:34 am
Maybe they are just going to price the better vintages higher? Would make sense.
May 22nd, 2008 at 8:55 am
Yes, but a precedent not that common in Australian wine retail, to the best of my knowledge. Starting to sound a bit French to me.
May 22nd, 2008 at 2:35 pm
Yes Marcus- maybe they will have sticky pricing (as for petrol) where the prices go up, but rarely come down. In the long run though, they will stretch their brand equity very thin (i.e. they will no longer be known for their value for money).
Wayno- good point- almost Bordeaux EnPremier. WA are close to this system already.
July 30th, 2008 at 1:19 pm
Got ‘em.
$62 at BWS.
Take that Fosters!